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Interior! / Eurovan Bed
« on: June 24, 2018, 06:36:46 pm »
I have had my eurovan for a couple years now and I have looked forward to camping with it. I have had the old westie and vanagon and spent many comfortable nights in them, but I have to say the bed in the eurovan is not at all comfortable. I am disappointed maybe I am just old or spoiled by my memory foam mattress. I spent more comfortable nights sleeping in the driver's seat of a howitzer during the war using my dirty bdu's for a pillow. I have had better nights sleep in my 64 vw bug and those seats did not recline and I am 6ft 3in tall. Well I have not spent much time in the back seat until this past week. I did enjoy the table, light, and cupholder but I probably won't pull the bed out again.
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Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
the chips on the hood had to be feathered out primmed and block sanded.
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It should have a steady 12v when tested from the red/blue wire to ground but if tested on both terminals with a test light you should get a rapid pulse when the n-80 is active. The ground goes to #31 on t68 from the ecu (J220). With engine off the n-80 is closed. The purge valve has an arrow that indicates the direction of flow and it has a small internal filter on the intake side.The evap cannister has 3 hose connections and is found to the rear in the left front wheel well. 
Two connections clip, and the third is a rubber friction fit that goes out the back of the cannister. The rollover valve will close if fuel enters the vent through the top of the filler neck. If you over fill your fuel tank fuel can enter the evap system through this clear vent line causing gurgling, filling problems, and or evap codes. If you look to the left wheel well from the rear you can see a loop in the clear tubing where the fuel overflow can be drained. 
There is a flow check and on the tank two vents, one near the filler and one near the fuel pump. Off the back of the evap cannister the line tees and goes to the leak detection pump (ldp) and the n-115 vent valve. 
The n-115 is open when the engine is off. The 12v power is the pin 1 red/blue and the ground is pin 2 switched with a relay (j490) in the center of the dash. The ground is shared with the leak detection pump and it is controlled by the ecu on pin #35 on the t68 so the relay is energized and the n-115 vent valve is closed when the ldp vaccum solenoid is powered. To access the n-115 you need to drop the fuel tank. To drop the tank simply remove the rubber grommet from arround the filler neck, remove the bolt securing the neck, support the tank, then remove the four 13mm bolts on the tank straps. The pins should have in the range of 25 to 40 ohms resistance I am not sure what the offical numbers are but that is what I expect to see (same with the pin2 pin3 on the ldp and pin1 pin2 on the n80). The ldp is a pump driven with vacuum from the hard 1/4in black vaccum line in the front left engine compartment that tees in to the brake booster vaccum line.
The solenoid is energized in pin 3 and the circuit is completed via pin 2 when the ecu opens the path to ground. Pin 1 on the ldp is a pressure switch. It sends a ground signal to the ecu on the #46 pin of the t68 when the system reaches pressure and opens if there is a leak. The lower pipe on the ldp tees to the vent tubing on the inner frame rail. The ldp test can be activated with the vagcom (01 engine group 71 basic settings). When the ldp is activated the n80 and n115 will be closed. The ldp will tick for a minute or two depending on the fuel level in the tank.
If it continues to run or it stops then restarts there is a leak in the system and a leak code will be set as a pending code. After a minute or so if the system maintains pressure the n115 will vent and the n80 purge will eventually open and the vaccum will pull the fule vapor out of the cannister and burn it in the engine. If you get a leak code first try the obvious; clear the codes, check the gas cap, and n80 for leaks then run the evap test with the vag. Behind the left headlight in the battery compartment you can find the four pin T4e/ terminal that connects the wires from the ldp and n115 to the harness that goes through the firewall.
I will edit this post to add more details and pics when I get some more time.
(I washed my van when it was below zero and water got on the alternator froze it up and popped the belt.) I dropped the pan took off the belt and checked group 110 on the vag and no misfires. Tring to understand what was going on I put the belt back on to do another scan and notice the belt clears the tensioner by a hair. 
It seems the tensioner was at its limit and allowed belt slippage. I did check the voltage on the vag and with a meter on the alternator and at the battery but the problem occured at high rpm under load.So i replaced the belt with a slightly shorter one and the misfire codes were resolved. This is one of those things you occasionally read about in forums and in the back of your mind you think that does not happen, but when you eliminate the obvious and have tried everything what seems to be improbable becomes less impossible.
It seems the voltages are completely beyond the realm of possible, but at the moment the spikes occur a p0300 shows up. And the spikes do not show up in the short term fuel but will show up in the temp, rpm, o2 voltage, throttle position and I assume the knock sensor reads it as a misfire. 
My vag computer died so I am tring to diagnose with my phone. I have spent a couple days methodically testing system components and changing parts. I need some fresh ideas. The only thing that I have found out of sorts is the b1s2 occasionally flat lines and the comes back to life after a few minutes. I will test the post cat.
. You can unscrew the four screws above the center console and blindly reach up there to get it. If you remove the ash tray then gently push up and back on the red diffuser in the top of the tray compartment. Then you can get your fingers in there and slide the bulb holder back and remove it
then unclip the power. There is a tool to remove the cigarette lighter 
but you can use a micro screwdriver push in on the tiny rectangular holes from inside the socket and gently pry the metal ring.
If you are replacing the bulb it will snap in but it is not easy because of the small space and it may take a few tries to get it.
It had an obvious timing chain rattle but it ran good so I ignored it. I drove it for a couple years and put about 25k miles on it before the timing chain failed. I studied the manual and decided to remove the engine rather than the transmission. I have done a few engines over the years but this was the toughest. After getting towed home I got to work on the teardown. 
Stripping the block bare so I could squeeze it out, the parts laid out the length of the van. 
By the following afternoon it was ready to pull. I had broken a few bolts off in the process. I chained up the block and grabbed my crowbar, a few pumps on the hoist and the engine was out.
I removed the upper chain cover. The damage was extensive. All the plastic guides were destroyed, the upper guide pin was erroded by the chain to the point that the part number was no longer readable,
and pices of the gides were sucked into the oil sump strainer.
The lower cover removal was tough because a triple square bolts on the torque plate stripped. I used my phone to find and order parts on the fly and parts begain to arrive before I had the engine clean. 
I put the chain and guides in and the timing was almost done.
I put on the upper cover and installed the tensioner so I could crank it a few times. I turned the crank and it came to an abrupt stop and It was then I realized my valves had crashed. I disassembled my chains and pulled the head to find the intake valve had been sheered off and punched a hole in the top of my number five piston.
My first thought was to go cheap and replace the broken pieces but I was in too deep so I decided on a complete overhaul. I disassembled the block and sent it over to the machine shop to have it bored 40 over.
With the 82mm pistons it would be a small 3 Liter. Pistons, injectors, gaskets, head bolts, waterpump upgrade, crackpipe, stat housing, and the list goes on. I spent the next two days cleaning, painting, and rebuilding parts.
I had to build another head because the valve head had been bounced around in the cylinder and tore up the seats. 
The block was bored I washed it with soap and water and sprayed it with hi temp semi. My first attempt to install the pistons didn't go well. I was using a ring compressor and I caught a ring and snapped an oil ring. 84mm kolbenshmit rings are not easy to come by in the us. It took four days to find another set and have them shipped.
When I got them I tuned the end gap with a file checking the gap with every stroke and when they were perfect I soaked them with assembly lube and worked them in with my fingers and a screw driver and torqued everything down.
I carefully installed the head gasket and the new head following the torque sequence exactly.
I found that never seize makes a good polishing compound for aluminum.
The timing chain assembly went together nicely. I installed the oil pan, valve cover, water pump, torque converter, and the freshly painted exhaust manifold, I was ready to drop the engine back in. 
The remaining parts would have to be put on after. To get the engine back in I had to lift it high and drop it down vertical then lift the van and drop the front down to clear the fire wall and frame. I used long pices of threaded rod to pull the engine to the bell housing. Then spent the rest of the night and the next morning on my back and hunched over the engine installing the rest of the pices. By mid morning the assembly was complete and I was ready to fire it up. 
When I turned it over it fired right up and I could immidately hear a intake leak so I shut it down and retourqued the allan bolts on the intake and started it up again. The intake leak seemd to be gone but when I reved it up I could feel a slight stumble. I connected the vagcom and confirmed the number two was misfiring. I rechecked my plugs, coil, injectors eventually I had to accept the obvious, the intake had to be reseated. Taking the intake crossover off a vr6 is not fun. The radiator, serpentine, ac, alternator, smog pump all had to come off again. I found I had folded the corner of the intake gasket when I installed it so I had to order another one. Now she is back togather and runs better than new. 