31
Exterior / Re: T4/Eurovans with custom paint!
« on: November 05, 2017, 01:38:24 am »
This is for sale for $29000.00.
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32
Exterior / Re: Sliding Door Doesn't Want To Close In Colder Temps
« on: October 03, 2017, 07:17:20 pm »
If the handle sticks in when it freezes remove the handle and load the pivot and spring with white lithium grease. Also trim back the gasket around the spring a bit.
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33
Interior! / Door lock actuator
« on: October 02, 2017, 06:47:43 pm »
The slider door lock actuator is powered through the three pin contact on the leading edge of the door. These contacts can corrode internally and prevent the slider door lock actuator from working. You can check continuity from the connector to the pins. If the two screws are removed the contact assembly can be taken off and opened to clean the contact points.
If an actuator fails when a door is locked all the doors will cycle and unlock. The door with the bad actuator motor will lock all the door properly, but you will not hear the motor. The motor windings can be tested for continuity, with this motor the problem was obvious and I simply cleaned and lubricated the armature.
If an actuator fails when a door is locked all the doors will cycle and unlock. The door with the bad actuator motor will lock all the door properly, but you will not hear the motor. The motor windings can be tested for continuity, with this motor the problem was obvious and I simply cleaned and lubricated the armature.
34
Exterior / Re: vw emblem broke off
« on: September 29, 2017, 10:22:06 pm »You can just adhere it with some weather strip and body molding adhesive.This is what I used, 3m emblem and trim adhesive, it was about $6.00. Just adhere the chrome to the rubber then stick the rubber with three spots around where the posts were.
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[/quoteThanks ! I will look for some at the autoparts store today, good thing those little blue grommets i bought were cheap !
35
Exterior / Wiper adjustment
« on: September 28, 2017, 10:58:38 pm »
I removed the windshield wipers and linkage to paint. When I reassembled the wipers I had to pull them off several times to get the adjustment perfect. After the third time I noticed small black index marks on the windshield. With the wipers in the off position, and the blades set to these index marks, the wipers will have full travel to the edge of the windshield.
36
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Engine Oil type
« on: September 09, 2017, 07:27:43 pm »
I was a die hard 5w30, I thought paying premium price for oil was a waste of money. I had a gallon of 0w40 for my passat so I used it in my 12v ev and you can definitely hear the difference. The 0w40 quiets the internal noise, and the extended mileage you can drive offsets the additional cost. So my opinion I would absolutely use the 0w.
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37
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Need a new engine
« on: September 09, 2017, 06:20:30 pm »
It is more work to pull the engine than it is to overhaul. If the top end is good parts and machine work probably would be around $2500.00 then you can reassemble it in a weekend. You could over bore the cylinders to 83mm and have a 3L. When it's done you have a new engine. If your shop won't do an overhaul you should find one that can.
38
Exterior / Re: vw emblem broke off
« on: July 22, 2017, 09:52:03 pm »
You can just adhere it with some weather strip and body molding adhesive.
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Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
40
Interior! / Clay and Grey
« on: July 07, 2017, 09:49:59 pm »
I had my 99 for a long time before I realized the dashboard, interior panels and carpet were different colors. The grey and clay are so close you have to wonder why did they bother making two colors .
41
Interior! / Re: Coating for the plastic entry wells?
« on: July 07, 2017, 09:20:55 pm »
The chalky whiteness can be removed with a heat gun. I find a good scrub with lacquer thinner and a nylon brush usually does the job. The black footwear do look sharp. I have been looking for a black rubber oem cab carpet, a lot of the European t4's have rubber mats and black footwells.
42
Exterior / Re: Project '99
« on: March 24, 2017, 04:59:30 pm »Okay, needle scalers range in price drastically. Do you have a recommendation? Thanks.I think I paid about $40.00 for the needle scaler, I'm not sure how much I paid for the air chisel I have had it for a long time.
43
Exterior / Re: Project '99
« on: March 21, 2017, 08:15:34 pm »Thank you for the reply. I've used everything except a needle scaler. I might have to pick one of those up and give it a try.I also use a spray bottle with white vinegar to help break the rust and keep the dust down when I use the wire wheel. Then after the rust is gone I scrub it with a parts brush and lacquer thinner before I paint.
44
Exterior / Re: Project '99
« on: March 20, 2017, 04:37:55 pm »What are you using for rust removal? Wire wheel? Looks pretty good when you are done!On the suspension parts I start with a needle scaler then use a knotted wire wheel with a right angle grinder, for tight spots I will hit it with a siphon cup sandblaster, and flat pieces a flap disk.
45
Exterior / Project '99
« on: March 20, 2017, 04:19:02 pm »
I took my '99 off the road about a year ago when i got my 2000. The clearcoat started peeling off and rust started showing up in the usual places so I decided I would make it my winter project. I started with the rocker.
Then I stripped the clearcoat on the hood and roof.
the chips on the hood had to be feathered out primmed and block sanded.
The roof took about 8 hours to strip the clear and sand. The coutours have to be hand sanded.
There was a lot of blister rust on the tailgate.
And some under the bumper.
There were a few small dents.
So far I have spent close to 100 hours block sanding.
On spots that have bare metal I primed with a light coat of etching primer, then build up with a few coats of 2k urathane.
The pillar stickers were not too bad but I decided to strip them off.
I pulled off the front and rear bumper and I decided to replace both bumper reinforcements. I was surprised with the extent of the corrosion because the undercarrage is relatively free of rust.
Started removing brake and suspension rust.
And removing factory chip gaurd under rockers
The cold weather and impending holiday slowing my progress.
De rusting rear brakes and suspension.
I have spent four days on my back sanding priming and painting the undercarrage. I started in the rear and I have made my way to the frame cross member where the swing arms attach.
I started de rusting the right suspension
I found some rust in the wheel well so I went to work patching
I am old school I prefer to gas weld most of the time, this time I wish I had used the mig. While I was welding I had an unfortunate incident. The seam sealer caught on fire and burned up my cab carpet and passenger door panel.
.
Soo careless. I found a carpet replacement with lh drive in the uk but it does not have the step up behind the front seats. I think I found a doner with good interior.
Took off the right fender a lot of debris between the fender and inner well.
...And the left.
I removed the factory chip gaurd/ seam sealer below the slider door and eliminated some hidden rust.
And repaired small dents on rocker.
Started derusting the last wheel.
Did some priming today.
Ready for paint, emerald pearl green paint code 47503
Finally got to paint. All weekend non stop.
And after nearly a year it is finally done.
And now I have to decide which one to drive.
https://youtu.be/0wasLwvePy4
Then I stripped the clearcoat on the hood and roof.
the chips on the hood had to be feathered out primmed and block sanded.The roof took about 8 hours to strip the clear and sand. The coutours have to be hand sanded.
There was a lot of blister rust on the tailgate.
And some under the bumper.
There were a few small dents.
So far I have spent close to 100 hours block sanding.
On spots that have bare metal I primed with a light coat of etching primer, then build up with a few coats of 2k urathane.
The pillar stickers were not too bad but I decided to strip them off.
I pulled off the front and rear bumper and I decided to replace both bumper reinforcements. I was surprised with the extent of the corrosion because the undercarrage is relatively free of rust.
Started removing brake and suspension rust.
And removing factory chip gaurd under rockers
The cold weather and impending holiday slowing my progress.
De rusting rear brakes and suspension.
I have spent four days on my back sanding priming and painting the undercarrage. I started in the rear and I have made my way to the frame cross member where the swing arms attach.
I started de rusting the right suspension
I found some rust in the wheel well so I went to work patching
I am old school I prefer to gas weld most of the time, this time I wish I had used the mig. While I was welding I had an unfortunate incident. The seam sealer caught on fire and burned up my cab carpet and passenger door panel.
.Soo careless. I found a carpet replacement with lh drive in the uk but it does not have the step up behind the front seats. I think I found a doner with good interior.
Took off the right fender a lot of debris between the fender and inner well.
...And the left.
I removed the factory chip gaurd/ seam sealer below the slider door and eliminated some hidden rust.
And repaired small dents on rocker.
Started derusting the last wheel.
Did some priming today.
Ready for paint, emerald pearl green paint code 47503Finally got to paint. All weekend non stop.
And after nearly a year it is finally done.
And now I have to decide which one to drive.
https://youtu.be/0wasLwvePy4