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Want to buy something? / Re: Fuel Door

« on: March 14, 2017, 04:41:26 pm »

I was going to replace the fuel door on my 99 but a little welding and grinding it is as good as new

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Westfalia / Re: Chasing Shorts - Low Voltage

« on: February 22, 2017, 06:37:18 pm »

If your alternator bench tested okay it has to be either the belt / tensioner, or the field voltage. The small wire on the alternator supplies voltage to the alternators field coils to create the magnetic field. You should replace the old battry.

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Exterior / Re: Black Vinyl Material Between Outside Windows

« on: February 18, 2017, 07:20:27 pm »

I don't like the stickers I will probably shoot the pillars with flat black.

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I used a razor blade scraper, then washed the glue off with laquer thinner. I took my time and did not have a single scratch on the clear coat.

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General Discussion / Re: T6 in USA?

« on: January 30, 2017, 10:51:09 pm »

Thr Mercedes sprinters are manufactured in dusseldorf germany then disassembled and shipped to the us where they are reassembled in a diamler factory in south carolina to avoid paying import and terrif. Prior to 2015 the ford transit was imported by ford as a passenger vehicle and the rear seats and seatbelts would be removed to sell the transit as a cargo van and avoid paying terrif and tax. After the loophole was closed ford built the plant in kansas city. Despite losses of 500 million in first quarter for warranty repairs and recalls motor trend awarded ford transit a truck of the year award. I imagine ford had hoped to win the contract for the llv replacement.
Six different chassis builders, which includes an indian and a turkish company, have been awarded $37M contract to build 50 prototypes to replace the postal service long life vehicle. Even Chrysler uses tax and import loopholes and leverages cheaper non union labor to maximize profits by manufacturing the pacifica in the winsor plant just across the detroit river in Canada.

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VR6 Engine tech / Re: Traction Control and ABS Light

« on: January 30, 2017, 10:09:02 pm »

It is not probable your abs light will go on without a code, unless there is a short in the indicator relay circuit. Do a full vag scan and post it here.

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Exterior / Re: Early (Mark I) Brakes

« on: December 28, 2016, 10:17:27 pm »

The best and easiest way to compress the caliper is to use a pry bar against the old pad before you remove the pins.

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Exterior / Re: T4/Eurovans with custom paint!

« on: December 19, 2016, 08:08:10 pm »

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Interior! / Re: All seats heated seats?

« on: December 11, 2016, 05:44:45 pm »

Is there a connector under the seat?
I will check my 99, my 00 and 02 are heated. The heated seats are great.

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Exterior / Project '99

« on: November 30, 2016, 07:41:23 pm »

I took my '99 off the road about a year ago when i got my 2000. The clearcoat started peeling off and rust started showing up in the usual places so I decided I would make it my winter project. I started with the rocker.

Then I stripped the clearcoat on the hood and roof.

the chips on the hood had to be feathered out primmed and block sanded.

The roof took about 8 hours to strip the clear and sand. The coutours have to be hand sanded.

There was a lot of blister rust on the tailgate.

And some under the bumper.

There were a few small dents.

So far I have spent close to 100 hours block sanding.

On spots that have bare metal I primed with a light coat of etching primer, then build up with a few coats of 2k urathane.
The pillar stickers were not too bad but I decided to strip them off.

I pulled off the front and rear bumper and I decided to replace both bumper reinforcements. I was surprised with the extent of the corrosion because the undercarrage is relatively free of rust.

Started removing brake and suspension rust.

And removing factory chip gaurd under rockers

The cold weather and impending holiday slowing my progress.
De rusting rear brakes and suspension.

I have spent four days on my back sanding priming and painting the undercarrage. I started in the rear and I have made my way to the frame cross member where the swing arms attach.
I started de rusting the right suspension

I found some rust in the wheel well so I went to work patching

I am old school I prefer to gas weld most of the time, this time I wish I had used the mig. While I was welding I had an unfortunate incident. The seam sealer caught on fire and burned up my cab carpet and passenger door panel.

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Soo careless. I found a carpet replacement with lh drive in the uk but it does not have the step up behind the front seats. I think I found a doner with good interior.
Took off the right fender a lot of debris between the fender and inner well.

...And the left.

I removed the factory chip gaurd/ seam sealer below the slider door and eliminated some hidden rust.

And repaired small dents on rocker.

Started derusting the last wheel.

Did some priming today.

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Interior! / Re: How do you remove hatch panel

« on: November 16, 2016, 04:30:41 pm »

Remove the 2 strap screws

lift the strap to disengage the strap hook

remove the 6 small screws on the very top of the plastic trim pices

the sides of the plastic trim are held on with clips.

the bottom card has 6 screws 2 on the side and 4 on the bottom.

and the card lifts up to disengage clips. The clips are glued on the card with weak glue and they may come off. Hot glue is the best way to fasten the clips.

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Exterior / Re: Eurovan emblem

« on: November 13, 2016, 04:30:26 pm »

This one is a 99 with a red 6

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Exterior / Re: Exterior Detailing Stuff

« on: November 13, 2016, 04:09:54 pm »

When I am wet sanding I use a spray bottle, assortment of blocks, and a rubber spreader squeegee. I add a bit of dish detergent to the water in the spray bottle. In areas with deep corrosion I use a mix of water and vinegar. Phospheric acid can also be used to eradicate the rust, etch, and premote adhesion on the bare metal. A bit of copper sulphate can be disolved in the phospheric acid to prevent flash rusting then add 8:1 of isopropyl alcohol to allow the acid to cut through wax or grease residue. Phospheric acid will convert iron oxide to iron phosphate which is inert and a good substrate for primer. Phospheric acid is inexpensive and can be purchased in most hardware stores. It is a commonly used ingredient in rust converters.

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