91

VR6 Engine tech / Re: Transmission filler tube leak

« on: May 01, 2016, 02:46:21 pm »

Remove the wheel and clean the area around the multi function switch put a clean pan under it. When you remove the switch you will loose about three cups of fluid just keep it clean and you can put it back in when you are done. A good parts store should have an o-ring that will work. Use a trans funnel and 5/8 tube to replace fluid.

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92

VR6 Engine tech / Re: What else should I do at the same time?

« on: May 01, 2016, 02:22:37 pm »

Test out your front o2, your combi valve and secondary air pump. If you do a compression test ( http://www.gruvenparts.com/12v-vr6-compression-test-instructions/ ) before you remove your engine it will help you decide what to do with the head. It is a big job, I would tear it down and do mains, rings, valves... If you do the work it will still cost 2 or 3k in parts to do a complete overhaul but you would be paying more than double that just for a chain job. You will find lots of things to buy when you get it torn down. Definitely having a complete gasket set is a must either way. Check out this page for some inspiration   http://www.gruvenparts.com/12v-vr6-timing-chain-and-guides-replacement/   

Is it a 12 or 24v ?

93

VR6 Engine tech / O2 sensor

« on: April 25, 2016, 07:16:15 pm »

Has anyone seen this before?   It seems the voltages are completely beyond the realm of possible, but at the moment the spikes occur a p0300 shows up. And the spikes do not show up in the short term fuel but will show up in the temp, rpm, o2 voltage, throttle position and I assume the knock sensor reads it as a misfire. My vag computer died so I am tring to diagnose with my phone. I have spent a couple days methodically testing system components and changing parts. I need some fresh ideas. The only thing that I have found out of sorts is the b1s2 occasionally flat lines and the comes back to life after a few minutes. I will test the post cat.

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94

Interior! / Re: General electrical issues . . . Where to start

« on: March 21, 2016, 07:26:48 pm »

I started looking at the fuses today.  Strangely my VW book that came with the car has a slightly different fuse panel layout than I actually have.

Horn: The fuse was blown but when I replaced it, no dice.  Doing a bit of googling (actually Bing'ing) I came across a few thread discussing relays. Apparently the horn is a #53 relay in spot 11.  I don't really know what this means.  I don't actually know what a relay does here, though I take it it's related to the sort switch.

Seat heat:  I disconnected the passenger side heater. Using a multimeter, I tested for power.  Now I'm no electrician, but I was surprised when the meter read 0.93.  Is that, volts or amps? Switching the red/black read -0.9 or so, so I'm assuming it's volts.  When adjusting the switch to 0, the meter read 0.0 as well.  So the switch does something t least.

Mirrors: No progress.   I'll take a look at the wiring harness another time.

It is most likely volts 9.3 Volts.  Look for the range button (or setting on dial if you have an analog) and test it directly on the battery and press the range button until you get something close to 12volts. The seat heat voltage will depend on the temperature setting on the seat heat control so you may not have 12v ,if you do have 9volts your seat should work if it is not set your meter to continuity and test the pins on the seat heat if you have no continuity your seat heat has an open circuit (broken wire). Also use your voltage tester or testlight on the horn, hold one lead on a clean ground and test both terminals and have someone push the horn button. I would test horn fuse then horn then if you dont find the problem test the relay and horn button. If your horn fuse was blown I would bank on a bad horn/s Once you find the relay you can test the pin to ground continuity while pressing the horn to confirm if the button is functioning properly. The relay is a solenoid actuated switch. It allows a low amperage / voltage circuit to switch a higher amperage / voltage.

95

Interior! / Re: What rattles and how to fix it

« on: March 19, 2016, 04:19:42 pm »

The plastic arround the steering column scrapes and there is a rattle on my sunroof.

96

Interior! / Cigarette lighter

« on: March 19, 2016, 03:49:26 pm »

My children have no idea what a cigarette lighter is, to them it is a power plug for their phones and the ash tray is simply a change drawer.
The removal and or bulb replacement is a bit difficult in the eurovan.  When you drop the bulb it will fall on the flat spot  to the right below the steering wheel .  You can unscrew the four screws above the center console and blindly reach up there to get it. If you remove the ash tray then gently push up and back on the red diffuser in the top of the tray compartment. Then you can get your fingers in there and slide the bulb holder back and remove it then unclip the power.  There is a tool to remove the cigarette lighter but you can use a micro screwdriver push in on the tiny rectangular  holes from inside the socket and gently pry the metal ring. If you are replacing the bulb it will snap in but it is not easy because of the small space and it may take a few tries to get it.

97

Exterior / Re: Techno Blue Bedliner

« on: January 28, 2016, 04:05:57 pm »

Nice. I thought about doing the same but just to the rockers. I did my vannagon 20 years ago and it  held up well over the years.

98

Exterior / Re: Power Window Help

« on: January 28, 2016, 03:59:49 pm »

I have had 4 eurovans and all of them have had broken wire in the driver door harness. I had a ground come loose on the ground jct to the left side of the foot well but i think that would effect both sides. If I remember correctly the ground is switched and the power goes to the motor. So test the connector at the motor for voltage if you have voltage test continuity on both sides of the switch to ground then  jump the switch out to test the motor. You can also switch the left switch connector to the right for testing. If you have power, ground, and the switch is working recheck the wires in the door bellows.

99

Show off your projects here! / Re: Vr6 overhaul

« on: December 20, 2015, 07:29:51 am »

I emailed reinz and said I was not happy with the quality and they told me they were manufactured to oem standard. I ended up getting an oem head gasket, valve cover, and intake gasket. I totally agree a job that big is woth a few extra dollars to make it as good as new.

100

VR6 Engine tech / Re: VR6 Coolant System Diagram

« on: December 05, 2015, 10:42:06 pm »

I had that tee blow out  three times then I replaced it with a brass barbed tee. If the secondary air pump fails the strip fuse (s1 near battery) is shared with the after run cooling pump and the pressue builds after the van is shut down.

101

VR6 Engine tech / Re: Re-programming 01P A/T to "sport mode" only?

« on: December 03, 2015, 10:57:41 pm »

Not much of a difference really, next time I hook up the vag I will log the data and post it.

102

Share your adventures! / Re: Official random Van pictures! Post a picture of stay out!

« on: November 28, 2015, 08:00:46 am »

Something else I wish we could get in the US--Portals, anyone?

Wow that is awesome!

103

VR6 Engine tech / Re: Tools- spark plug wire tool

« on: November 27, 2015, 02:41:03 pm »

I won mine in a poker game in stuttgart it was carved from the bough of a great oak tree that stood on the edge of the black forest...   Or maybe I bought it on ebay I can't remember
This one I crudely fashioned out of a piece of 3/4 emt conduit and it works just as well.

104

Exterior / Re: Brake upgrade advice

« on: November 26, 2015, 08:03:53 pm »

Wow those calipers are soo clean can't find nice salvage parts like that in the north east.  Did you guys just deep six the pad sensor wires?

105

VR6 Engine tech / Re: OBD Error Codes - Whatcha Got, Whatcha Know?

« on: November 26, 2015, 06:33:54 pm »

The p0440 can also be caused by the n115 canister vent  valve. The n115 is located over the gas tank on the inner left frame rail. If the valve is leaking the ldp pressure will leak out the intake tube that goes into the frame. If the n115 needs to be replaced the gas tank will need to drop down. I have written an email to doorman to get cut sheets on a specific purge valve that should match the oem at a fraction of the cost, I have not gotten a response yet. I have read the fuel pump gasket can leak as well but that can be accessed through the floor panel between the front seats under the carpet I think.
 I decided to purchase the doorman purge valve they are absolutely identical.