I managed overcome a big hurdle with the engine conversion -- removing the crank pulley. To remove the pulley, you need a 27mm socket (for the bolt) and a 46mm counter holding wrench. After researching and reading how painful it is to do with the engine out, I was really worried that this might be the show stopper for converting to the AXK ancillary components. Getting stuck with BDF pulleys wouldn't have been all that terrible - but still a compromise to the plan.
Rather than buy the special VW tool (3406) -- I searched for a 46mm offset wrench. They aren't cheap or easy to find around here. Cross searching though, it was interesting to find out that the Haldex/4-motion AWD filter wrench is 46mm -- a near perfect substitute for the DIY'er. Luck smiled on me again, and I managed to find a used one locally for $30 CDN.
Haldex Filter WrenchThe only modification needed, was to grind out enough clearance for the 27mm socket.
Wrench with SocketI was still a little skeptical if this would work with the engine on a stand. I tested out the amount of "effort" that would be needed to loosen the bolt on my garbage BDF -- and it wasn't too bad actually.
Socket w/Breaker bar + 4' cheater bar, Haldex wrench + 4' cheater bar = bolt off! With the "good" engines - I carefully made sure that the loosening forcers were as balanced as possible -- no sense in tipping over the engine at this point.
Loosening the crank pulleyGood BDFAs per the norm with Lucille's engine block - lots of paint peeling and rust on the block. After closely looking at the cooling system layout -- I'm convinced its inadequately plumbed - I have more on that to share later.
Lucille's AXK w/ crank pulley removedFor those keeping score, this sealing plate/ crank cover is actually different between the BDF and AXK -- different part numbers : 021 103 153 vs 021 103 0153 A. The difference (as I can tell) is just to the prying tab locations.