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Messages - Lugboot

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16
Shiny things you no longer want / Re: Eurovan Accessories For Sale
« on: July 18, 2015, 02:06:50 pm »
SOLD--Pics of Swivel Seat Base


17
Shiny things you no longer want / Eurovan Accessories For Sale
« on: July 18, 2015, 02:04:52 pm »
Selling a bunch of accessories from our 2000 Eurovan--Here's the list and I'll post pics in more posts!

SOLD--Passenger Side Swivel Seat Base--this replaces the stock seat base using the same hardware--$150.  Don't really want to ship this one--it's heavy!

SOLD--Louvered Sliding Window Screen--Driver side, smaller, $50
SOLD--Louvered Sliding Window Screen--Passenger side, larger, $75
--ventilation even in the rain!

SOLD--3-piece Window Shade Set--front windows and windshield--insulated!  $50

SOLD--Sliding Door Insect Screen with hardware-- $30--SOLD
SOLD--Rear Hatch Insect Screen with hardware-- $30--SOLD
--Buyer will need to supply new Velcro tape for the van side.

SOLD--Floor mats--these kinda match the precut rear floor coverings sold here -- $30--SOLD

SOLD--Rear Hatch AirLock bracket -- $15.  This allows you to leave the rear hatch cracked, but still locked, for ventilation.--SOLD

Buyers pay shipping if necessary.  I am located in Pennsylvania.  Please let me know if there are any questions, either here or via PM!

18
Finished and on the van!


19
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Losing power/going into limp mode
« on: July 01, 2015, 08:14:43 am »
For reference, here's a thread from VW Vortex that started me down this path, even though it's not the exact same behavior:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5640499-2002-Eurovan-A-c-vents-roar-when-pressing-the-gas

And a specific post from that thread:

"Just took care of this on our 2000 MV....
For some reason, when you step on the gas when the climate control is on "AUTO", the climate computer shifts into recirculate mode. The vacuum motor that controls the recirculation flap does not work on my van. When the computer tries to activate this valve, it leaks. That doesn't allow sufficient vacuum to keep the flap to the center dash vents open, hence the loss of air flow and extra noise.
This vacuum motor (part # 7D1820625) is in the far right hand side of the air distribution housing that contains the fresh air fan, etc., and is accessible from the passenger side. There is a removable panel under the passenger air bag, that allows you to reach up to the vacuum motor.
I haven't pulled the vacuum motor yet - it is held by two screws in a really tight spot. Until I get a chance, I pulled the vacuum hose (Black with green stripe) off the vacuum valve rail (N53 in the Bentley - bright red box) and put a plugged piece of hose on the rail. I don't have a recirculate mode, but I also don't have my wife asking me what the heck is wrong with the air conditioning.
As I said above, this only happened when the climatronic was in Auto mode, or the recirculate feature was turned on. Can anyone explain why the computer would want to recirculate airflow when accelerating?"

This morning I also spoke to the shop that does most of the maintenance on our van, and based on the behavior I reported and his own research, he is leaning towards the controls of the recirculation flap as well.

20
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Losing power/going into limp mode
« on: July 01, 2015, 07:36:17 am »
Might be getting closer to figuring this behavior out.  The Climatronic system has vacuum controlled servos. I'm starting to think there's a bad vacuum leak at one of these since the behavior only happens when Climatronic is engaged.  Also, the whistling/sucking noise is getting worse...now bad enough to hear outside the van with the hood up, but it is much, much louder inside the van.

In conjunction to the noise getting worse, the van now wants to stall when it happens.  And when restarted, it barely wants to remain running until things cool down.

The most recent episode was on the way home from a trip to the NJ beaches.  It left us sit at a liquor store in Delaware (good choice of spots) and after it sat for 15-20 minutes, we started it back up, turned the Climatronic to Econ, and drove another several hours with no issues.

21
The tank cradles are close to finished now--here's a pic with a test fit of the strap and clamps.  The straps go through 1/2" holes drilled in the cradle, which I then smoothed/contoured with a Dremel.  I installed grommets on the strap where the bolts go through it. 

After the pics, I took it apart so I could glue the pads in.

I'm thinking tonight I'll be able to do a test fill and pressurize to check everything before putting it on the rack!

I guess I'm going to have to start linking pics here instead of attaching.  It doesn't seem to save the original orientation of the pics.

22
Exterior / Re: Bike Racks
« on: June 24, 2015, 06:03:42 am »
Those are nice racks!  They are on the short list for when I have to replace my Yakima hitch rack.

23
Here's a couple pics of what I'm thinking of for the mounting cradles.

These are Yakima wheel forks, that I had laying around and don't use anymore with the prevalence of thru-axles, 29ers, hitch racks, and tall vehicles.  They attach to my round bars with the Yakima hardware, so easy-peasy. I figure I'm going to cut two down and modify for the tank cradle.  The black lines are where I plan to cut them and the dot is where I am thinking of drilling about a half inch hole to run a strap through.  The inside of the cradles will be covered in something to pad the tank, and the front one will have a bit extra on the bottom to raise the front of the tank a little higher than the rear.

When I start on the straps, I'll put up a couple pics of that idea, as well.

I figure you could do the same with some aluminum or steel flat bar stock that you could bend into shape.  Other people have just used massive tie-wraps to hold the tank to the cross bars.

The last pic is the 6' hose and spray nozzle that will be used as the shower head, etc.


24
Thanks for the feedback and questions!

Yep, this is the DIY version of the Road Shower Cole sells--which is a pretty sweet product, for sure.  Changing the shape of the tank allows the same volume in less linear feet, which is nice.  Honestly, if I had the extra cash I could justify for it, I would seriously consider getting one of those.  The new version that is coming out is nicer than the original, which was introduced about 5-7 years ago, I think?

As to how to pressurize--here's a pic of the cap with a bicycle Presta valve fitted to it.  The idea is to be able to pressurize it with a hand-held bike pump, or if you use a Schrader valve (or an adapter) and have an air compressor, you could pressurize it that way.  You don't need much pressure--maybe 15 lbs?

Also, you don't *need* to pressurize it--you could definitely just use it gravity fed, especially with it being on top of a van!  The pressure is nice for times you may want to use it for other things, like cleaning off a bike or spraying down something where pressure would help.  If the tank was mounted lower, say on a car roof lower than head height, than pressurizing would be handy unless you want to crouch down to rinse your hair.

25
Show off your projects here! / The Ubiquitous Roofrack Shower Setup
« on: June 23, 2015, 06:49:37 am »
So, part of our prep for our CO road trip was to get a rooftop shower setup together.  I know iterations of this are all over the net, but I'm pretty pleased so far with how this is coming together.  This is using regular white PVC 4" pipe and fittings.

I went with a 4" x 8' setup to hold a little over 5 gallons of water.  There is a Presta valve stem mounted through the cap for the T-junction to pressurize the tank with a bike pump or other pump.  We mountain bike quite a bit so the Presta valve was the most accessible for me and required a smaller hole to mount.  The T-junction is offset towards the front of the pipe because I plan to mount this with the front end slightly raised to help with flow.  The hole the spigot goes through is sealed with silicone sealant, as is the hole the valve stem goes through.

Everything was assembled with heavy duty PVC cement.  After allowing it to cure for a day, I used a random orbital sander to rough up the outside of the pipe for better paint adhesion and masked off the spigot, threads, etc.  Then it got a coat of Rustoleum black rubber sealant over the whole thing.  We'll see how this holds up--if it starts to peel, I'll source some bedliner material instead.

Since this tank will probably not live on the van 24/7/365, I wanted mounting brackets that facilitate that.  We had some old Yakima fork mounts collecting dust, so I am modifying those to become cradles for the tank.  I'll get some pics of those and add it to the post.

The hose attachment is a 6' leader hose meant for going from a house spigot to a hose reel--pretty much perfect length for this application.

So here are some pics so far--I'll get some more tonight as I continue working on it!




26
Exterior / Re: Which awning to get for EVC?
« on: June 21, 2015, 07:15:58 am »
Cool to see we're not the only Carport owners!  Great pic...I didn't realize they stopped making them.

27
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Losing power/going into limp mode
« on: June 19, 2015, 06:43:11 am »
The evap code has been on and off for months with no adverse driving affects but this losing power behavior is brand new and is accompanied by the P1128 code. 

Ironically, i have a Bentley, but not the license to access it.  I should consider ponying up the $55 for the license, methinks.

28
VR6 Engine tech / Losing power/going into limp mode
« on: June 19, 2015, 05:53:51 am »
Here's one for everyone.  I have an issue right now with my 2000 EV GLS with the 12 valve motor.

When ambient temps are high--mid 80s or so--and am running the van at highway speeds ~70mph or so, and running the AC on manual with air directed to vent and floor, fan speed high, and temp set to about 68-69, for about 40 minutes or so....

the van loses power and goes into what can only be described as "limp mode" and a high-pitched whine can be heard from somewhere up front.  It is easier to hear inside than out.  If you pull over to the side, turn off the AC, idle for a few minutes, the whine does not go away, but you can drive off again normally, leaving the AC off.

The first time this happened, the MIL came on but then turned itself off after a few drive cycles.  It happened a second time and I pulled the codes, which are:

P1128, confirmed (lean condition)
P0442, pending (evap leak, small, been chasing this one for awhile)

It happened a third time, the MIL did not come on, but the codes are the same.

The shop had it yesterday and drove it, but did not replicate.  The ambient temps were lower, though.

Would really like to sort this out as we are planning to head to CO with it in a few weeks and Kansas with no AC is not my idea of a good time.

Any insight?

29
Exterior / Re: Which awning to get for EVC?
« on: June 12, 2015, 12:21:23 pm »
I am pretty interested in a Fiamma or a FoxWing, but I would need to see the FoxWing first.

In the meantime, we use a Kelty Carport Deluxe.  It takes maybe 5-10 minutes to set up, but it can either be used down as a side tent or up with the included poles as a massive awning.  When it's down, it has side flaps for privacy, so it's like a changing room.

It can also be used on its own as a shelter without the vehicle, set up as a lean-to.

Here's a few pics, one of a FoxWing from their site and then the Kelty on our van.


30
Something else I wish we could get in the US--Portals, anyone?


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