[boinzy]

Does anyone know if it's possible to attach a basket directly to the tracks without crossbars and such?

[Suthernvanman]

I'm guessing some of you guys are ADV as well so before you start in with 'rack compensating for' comments...

I love this van.  Favorite vehicle ever - all I thought it could be.  It serves as basecamp for regional cragging, urban office pre/post local bike rides / gym climbing, happy hour central after local bike rides / gym climbing, weekends at the track, whitewater ventures - just perfect.

So when it comes to racking if it can be overdone please do count me in!!

I went with tracks for the same reason as Cole.  I bought 2 complete kits though and cut them down to fit full length of pop top then added four cross bars.  I mitered both pieces on each side - the 3rd from front cross bar mount straddles the joint - it's crisp.

The basket up front holds awkward stuff like pit stands or wet gear or I use expedition dry bags and can pack whatever.  The top box keeps a grill + a couple of portable tables permanently + a few pieces if need be.  To the left of the box will be a 'low boy' bike mount (frame / rear wheel on cross bars) that I've yet to invent.  I have a single bike mount to the right of the basket.  I use the bars for EZ up / boats / lumber / etc.

Couple of notes - as Cole pointed out the Yakima supplied track bolts are too short.  I believe they are fine thread and I had a hard time locating via Home Depot / Ace so bought them online.  The black plastic thumb nuts on the interior do not bother me visually, I can only see the very front two unless I am 'in bed'.  I sourced some neoprene washers for under the tracks in addition to silicone.

As to mounting a basket directly to tracks it could be done with a bit of custom carriage bolt / mounting magician work I believe.  At least you can see there are ample opportunities to secure the basket itself.

I also added a rack on the back.  Sweet way to climb up top for rigging and has a fold down shelf that I use for a variety of things (track fuel cans / track fluids / short haul firewood / etc.)  You can use bike mounts back here as well but not with shelf / ladder rig I'm running.  Couple of small issues with the rack - interference with rear wiper staggers ladder a bit (still functional) and cold weather + weight means hatch will not stay up without prop (I'm about to cut a tube that will function like the pop top strut lock but used heavy duty tent pole last winter.)  The back rack came out of CAN with great service from http://vwrack.com

From the top:



Side shot:



Ass end:



Black thumb nut visible with top down x 2

[Cole]

Looks awesome and well thought out!

[rcowan]

Love it! Very nice setup. I really like that rear rack. That is a new option/idea to me.

[Itsamoto]

Nice set up Suthernvanman -- that looks awesome. I like the idea of some extra cross bars to spread out the weight.

I really like the Gary Lee setup - although it seems pretty pricey.

I did read post from the UK T4 forum -- whereby some Fiamma rear rack users upgraded the rear door struts to adjust for the extra weight. So its doable to find a fix that makes that easier to open when loaded.

[Lugboot]

I like the possibility to mount the spare tire on the back instead of underneath.  Especially when running larger tires than stock.  Thanks for the resource!

[Suthernvanman]

Glad you guys like the rack rig - it is super functional.

Man I tried and tried to upgrade those rear door struts but no luck just fails.  I bought a couple of 250lbf (180lbf is stock) thinking I'd mount one and maybe both but they were about 1/2" long and I couldn't get them on.  I'd post a pic of my home made strut compression rig (two pieces of angle iron with bolts for compression) but then my welding 'skills' would be on the web for all to ridicule.  I'd still give strut upgrade a shot if someone knows a direct fit.

I did motivate at lunch and cut up tube for homemade locking strut.  The tube was scrap - came off my adventure skiff as it was tiller extension that failed on high speed run of an Atlantic marsh - thank you kill switch!  Dimensions on the tube: OD 7/8" ID 13/16" cut to length was about 9 3/4".  I made a jig out of MDF and with the tube a bit longer than need be pinned it in via screw.  Then 2 passes on the table saw for the slot, and cut to length.

The ID is perfect snap fit for bottom mount on strut as you can see in pic two.  This seems like it will work pretty well but it won't get regular use until November.


fwiw - the blade in pic was used for mdf jig, I swapped a non ferrous version in the table saw for tube ripping.



Nice fit - could even be another 1/4" in length:

[Suthernvanman]

Thought I'd make a case for the 78" cross bars.  The longest of the Yakima cross bars found their way onto my trucks and vans as a natural off shoot of 'running shuttle' - the mechanics of loading as many as six or even eight kayaks are more straight forward with this wide platform.

There are additional benefits too.  I load bikes on top by 'hanging' them temporarily on the bars, climbing up the ladder then lift and secure fork mount / rear tire.  At 5'9" I need a ladder otherwise.  I do have conceptual plans for a 'low boy' mount per previous post but it will be on the driver's side rear to avoid sliding door interference.

Not shown is the convenience of hanging clothes, hydration packs, outdoor showers etc.

[Cole]

Good stuff!

[boinzy]

Once the tracks are on, what towers do you like?

And what length crossbars? I don't like the look of too-wide cross bars, but I'm thinking I want a basket up top and a Road Shower. I'm probably going to need a wide setup.

[Suthernvanman]

Once the tracks are on, what towers do you like?

And what length crossbars? I don't like the look of too-wide cross bars, but I'm thinking I want a basket up top and a Road Shower. I'm probably going to need a wide setup.

I used Yakima 'Control Towers' with 'Landing Pad 1' for towers.  The baskets are rectangular and can be installed 'length' wise if you are looking for narrower cross bars.  The next size down is 66" and then 58" and finally 48"

My 78" are close to width of van at the side mirrors.

[Suthernvanman]

I did read post from the UK T4 forum -- whereby some Fiamma rear rack users upgraded the rear door struts to adjust for the extra weight. So its doable to find a fix that makes that easier to open when loaded.

Thanks for the direction - I used it to track down what I'm pretty sure will in fact work.  Definitely adds some $$$ to the back rack spend but since I've finally found a beefy strut it will be nice to not need to fiddle with my newly built (and maybe still useful if the rack is super loaded up and it brrrrrrrrrr) home made strut locker

UK forum had a link to a parts place with part #7D0829331G as T4 H/D Tail Gate Lifter Gas Struts with exhaust rated at 910 Newton.  Google says 910 Newton is 204 lbf so about 20bf more than stock.

Google also says I can order these from Jim Ellis VW - just up the road.  Spec on page also shows 910 Newton.  Gotta love their 'you save 25%!)

GoWesty oem strut replacement part 7D0829331F which is also available from Jim Ellis with a spec of 830 Newtons or 186lbf.

I've got silly time and money chasing this - guess I should have dug harder in VW parts catalog to start 

[Marshy]

Not exactly on topic, but related. For you guys that have cargo boxes on your roof racks. I'm having a hard time reaching into the box. I'm 6' and even standing on the step with the door open I can't reach the far side of the box.
I guess this is the down side of having all that awesome head room inside.

What kind of step ladder or collapsible ladder do you use to be able to reach your rooftop cargo boxes?
And where do you store your ladder?

I am aware of the hatch ladders for sale at vwrack.com, but would prefer a different (and cheaper) solution.

[Cole]

I always just stood on the rear tire. Your box looks too far forward for that.

[Marshy]

Derp! I'll try that. Thanks!