16

Diesel Swap Tech and FAQ / Re: Engine Mounts

« on: April 17, 2016, 03:38:06 pm »

I ended up getting an ABL mount, which calmed vibrations a bit (a lot compared to the ill-fitting long-nose mount) but mostly just keeps my engine from rocking around. Finding an M10x110mm bolt rated 10.9 or above is surprisingly difficult.

If anyone ends up needing the >96 mount I have a good Febi one that's already on this side of the pond.

17

Diesel Swap Tech and FAQ / Re: The best donor option?

« on: April 17, 2016, 03:33:59 pm »

I just thought about a plus for the Jetta donor last night: if the car came with keyless entry (and your van doesn't have it) it'd almost certainly be able to accompany the swap.

Regarding the long-nose vans, I don't know anyone with one around here to get a close enough look at them. Take a look at your fusebox: if it looks like this :

then it's probably a very similar wiring situation. If it is closer to the MkIV platform with much smaller fuses you'd probably have to do a fair bit more work. I strongly suspect it's the former case, which makes it much easier.

I don't really see the point of installing an ALH over an AHU, with regard to performance, except for the somewhat more sophisticated ECU when the weak points (pistons, injection pump pressure, VNT vs waste gate turbo)— all of which can be mitigated and retain the easy mounting.

18

Diesel Swap Tech and FAQ / Re: The best donor option?

« on: April 14, 2016, 01:46:11 pm »

I think the Passat is the better donor, personally, but I've never used a Jetta so my opinion may not be worth much. You can swap the cluster directly and the wiring harness doesn't need to be modified hardly at all.

With only 150k miles the engine is probably in great shape so that should make things significantly less expensive in the long run.

19

Diesel Swap Tech and FAQ / Re: AFN vs. AHU

« on: March 29, 2016, 03:01:07 pm »

Probably just because they're harder to get in the United States. I'm not aware of any marked differences between the two internally. Same block casting, same 68-pin ECU, etc. For what it's worth mine is a 1Z running an AFN ECU and VNT turbo with .205 nozzles.

In my estimation the only thing to be concerned about is regarding the lack of bronze bushing for the piston pins in 1Z motors (use ALH/AGR or AHU pistons) and the smooth-body 1Z 10mm injection pump (use AHU, ALH or 11mm ALH). I'm not sure I'd have been as happy with this swap and the taller EWB transmission if I was running stock power levels, so these are relevant concerns.

20

Want to buy something? / Re: '93 MV Sliding Door Curtain or Clips

« on: March 16, 2016, 08:31:42 pm »

Awesome! Thanks so much!

21

Want to buy something? / Re: '93 MV Sliding Door Curtain or Clips

« on: March 15, 2016, 06:39:17 pm »

 No, they are more like hooks then clips I suppose.  There are little eyelets that slide in the track, and I need things that hook into those.

22

Diesel Swap Tech and FAQ / Engine Mounts

« on: March 09, 2016, 01:44:48 pm »

It took about 1500 miles (and maybe a bit of trailer pulling) to sufficiently wear out the right-side engine mount which I reused from the gasser.

With the idea of cutting down vibrations, I ordered a hydraulic mount for the ABL, but unfortunately made the mistake of getting a >'96 mount. I surmise that the later vans' brackets are mounted higher on the frame, because the mount is a lot taller. It fits, but the engine is unacceptably lower and it vibrates a whole lot more than before.

Should I just replace it with a new stock gasser mount (701199201H) or a plain bonded rubber 90-95 ABL mount (701199201G)? Has anyone else explored options for cutting down vibrations in the cab?

Andrew

23

Westfalia / Re: 93 MV swivel seat options

« on: February 25, 2016, 11:52:30 am »

Ahh, they just replace the whole seat base. Brilliant. I'm having a hard time telling from the photos if they still slide forward and backward (off the top of my head that's part of the seat itself, I think?). I wonder if I could fab up something similar.

It looks like Bus Depot sells the box-safe version for $499, but then I wouldn't have anything left to put in the safe.

24

Interior! / Re: No backlight on cluster

« on: February 24, 2016, 02:23:13 pm »

When you say that the dimmer has no effect, do you mean that it does nothing or that it has no apparent defect?
If the former I would suspect the dimmer wheel.

Most of my diagrams concern the early vans, but the one I found with the T32 connector for the cluster (early vans had T28) shows pin 20 driving L75 which I think is the backlight you're talking about. Pin 20 connects to U1/14 on the back of the fuse box, which is internally connected to plug R/ pin 4. R/4 connects to the headlight dimmer.

It appears that the dimmer gets power from relay 10, which is the fog light relay on the A3/B4 platform cars. I think the dimmer gets power internally from the switch from R/5 when the lights are on. I'm not seeing any fuses involved, which is fun.

My guess based on this would be a replacement headlight switch. You can test this by checking the voltage at the green/black wire from the back of the headlight switch with the parking lights on (if the license plate lights are on, the cluster backlight should be too). Should vary between 5-12ish volts when turning the wheel. If not, jumper it to 12 volts and see if the cluster lights come on.

25

Westfalia / Re: 93 MV swivel seat options

« on: February 24, 2016, 01:29:46 pm »

Cole, didn't I read somewhere that you cut and welded the bases a bit shorter? Driving on flat ground isn't a big deal, but especially in the mountains I notice that I'm looking through the blue tint strip at the very top of the windshield a lot. If the swivel ads much height I can see it getting pretty uncomfortable.

26

Want to buy something? / Re: Passenger Side Mirror

« on: February 24, 2016, 01:26:15 pm »

Found one!

27

Want to buy something? / Passenger Side Mirror

« on: February 20, 2016, 08:44:22 pm »

After doing a ton of work to my van I was feeling pretty good… and then the mirror fell off. The mounting tabs are both broken.

Anyone have an electric passenger-side mirror? Mine's a '93, but I am pretty sure the later vans would work. Send me a price shipped to 85022 please

28

Diesel Swap Tech and FAQ / Re: 2002 EV MV TDI Swap questions

« on: February 17, 2016, 09:01:58 am »

I don't have experience with the long-nose vans, so issues like the mounts and wiring will be different. My advice would be to look at a lot of diagrams on vagcat.com and determine the similarities to the short-nose vans where this has been done several times (mostly in Europe).

Wiring is not difficult if you are capable of reading schematics, especially Bentley-style. Wiring simply consists of routing each signal where it's intended to go; if the sender and receiver are compatible, it will work. It remains up to you to determine if that's the case between, say, an AHU coolant temperature sender and a 2002 gauge cluster. With the short-nose vans this is a matter of plugging things in correctly and swapping pins in plugs, not cutting and splicing.

The EDC system is very much self-contained, wiring wise, so retaining climate control and ABS should be straightforward. I can't comment on the physical cluster fit, but if they are not the same as the B4 (the A3 will almost certainly not fit) I would retain the T4 cluster and condition the signals to work. For my swap this involved re-writing the EEPROM inside the cluster to support the correct 4-cylinder tach and VSS, but a popular option on the TDIClub is some frequency-conversion box from Dakota Digital. I imagine a $4 arduino clone would do as good a job if you're willing to learn and write 10-20 lines of code.

Your parts list is missing the ABL inner timing belt cover, which is required for the ABL (not AHU engine mount bracket).  You may also want ABL bellhousing tins since they are different when mating to an 02B vs 02A. I ended up fabricating them, but it would have been cleaner to have something to bolt on.

To my knowledge-- which is limited on the later stuff--  an ALH style block (I forget the block code) was never offered, so factory mounts wouldn't be available.

You can go through my swap at andrewclink.com/projects/thebus . Things like power steering and AC connections have to be considered, airbox, intercooler piping, exhaust, etc. So worth it in the end (at least coming from a doggy 5-cylinder), but a lot more work than you might think at first.

29

Diesel Swap Tech and FAQ / Re: AHU TDI swap into '93 Eurovan

« on: February 16, 2016, 02:51:53 pm »

So just an update on this. I have about 1000 miles on the swap and have got the ECU programming about where I want it, I think. I'm using a program from a '98 Passat AFN (B4), 028906021GL.

Amid break-in and a few dodgy tunes I've been getting about 30mpg 100% city driving. I still haven't convinced myself to cut the bumper for the front-mount intercooler, but once I do and I get some time we'll be able to take our first real highway trip up to see some snow.

I have also removed all body panels and sound-deadened and insulated at this point. I scored a giant sheet of neoprene from a random local guy and sound-proofed under the plywood as well. Throughout the whole van there are two areas of rust that I have now removed and welded in patches, and the whole thing is quieter now than it was as a gasser. We can actually hold a conversation inside. Since our (parked) TDI Beetle was demolished by a drunk driver, the bus has become our daily, so this is important.

Even with small (.205) nozzles, the van is drivable in city traffic and merging into rush-hour traffic in a way that would have been a major source of stress with the gas motor. Time will tell how it performs on mountain grades, but I am optimistic.

30

Exterior / Re: Early (Mark I) Brakes

« on: February 07, 2016, 04:36:52 pm »

I received the brakes pretty quickly and they fit great. The pads that were included were semi-metallic CTEK, which were the same I got from the place in town. The brakes themselves are drilled, slotted, and zinc-coated. The stopping power is noticeably better. My main goal was to have cooler brakes going down mountains, especially with the little 1.9 litre TDI instead of the 2.5.

I had frozen calliper sliders, too, so if you do this job you may want to find replacements ahead of time.

I used these rotors: http://www.cquence.net/volkswagen-eurovan-1993-street-series-cross-drilled-slotted-brake-rotors.html

Hope this helps someone.