16

Interior! / Re: Dashboard Cubby Installation

« on: March 27, 2016, 11:37:46 am »

Installed mine yesterday - great instructions! I found a trim tool useful for popping off plastic press in screws and a small punch good for side trim removal and realignment of three speed nuts on top.

Great place to collect need to grabs.

17

Interior! / Re: Sticky interior plastic

« on: March 24, 2016, 07:54:12 am »

How about a few coats of plastdip?

18

Interior! / Re: Dashboard Cubby Installation

« on: March 16, 2016, 06:50:13 pm »

Great post - thanks as pics always help show the way.  Got some speed nuts on order (local suppliers notoriously bad @ fasteners unless you want a nail so went to www.)  Will add experience to this thread when I do mine.

19

Shiny things you no longer want / Re: Eurovan Passenger Side Cubby/Glovebox

« on: March 14, 2016, 02:00:14 pm »

got one today - perfect match - looking forward to getting it fitted up! 

One thing the first post pic doesn't show is how deep this bit is - really looking like a helpful place to collect all those things that you need to grab frequently.  I hadn't seen one in person but like many feel the want for storage up front and think this unit is going to be great at that.

Thanks Itsamoto :-)

20

Shiny things you no longer want / Re: Eurovan Passenger Side Cubby/Glovebox

« on: March 05, 2016, 10:38:33 am »

Right on! If you can send an email to Itsamoto@gmail.com -- I'll reply to you with a quote.

Just sent email - hadn't been on this thread in a while - lots of travel...

21

Shiny things you no longer want / Re: Eurovan Passenger Side Cubby/Glovebox

« on: February 22, 2016, 06:27:05 pm »

I'd like one too.      Never have enough spaces to put stuff up front.  Ship to 30305.

22

Shiny things you no longer want / 2003 EV Hatch Struts and PopUp Strut

« on: January 28, 2016, 01:01:43 pm »

These 830N hatch struts came off my 2003 EV with 40k miles - they are OEM and in great working shape, all hardware included.  I added a steel hatch rack with ladder and folding shelf and they did fine until the temp approached freezing then they couldn't handle the weight.  I've upgraded to 910N struts which supports the rack even below freezing.  You can see my set up in this thread:  http://www.cavevan.com/forum/index.php?topic=15.16

$50 for both hatch struts plus shipping.





And with all that stuff up top, I added a 2nd locker to my pop top (you can read about the change in same link above)

$20 for pop top strut plus shipping:

23

Interior! / Re: Uprated tailgate struts

« on: January 17, 2016, 06:49:29 am »

Yes - 770N is the rating for your strut. 

My T4 had problems keeping the rear hatch open in cold temps after I installed back rack (steel structure, ladder, shelf - not sure but guessing more than empty Fiamma bike rack but less than if loaded with bike.)

I upgraded to VW 910N and all good now for me but sort of doubt it would stay up with more than single light road bike (if then.)  I find it no harder to close but that might change at 1200N.

I posted up some experience in the Yakima thread as that may be of use - made a temporary strut locking device that you could consider as an option.  Scroll down in linky - there are a couple of related posts.

http://www.cavevan.com/forum/index.php?topic=15.15

24

Exterior / Re: Stowaway Cargo Box & Mod

« on: December 10, 2015, 12:35:03 pm »

I'm guessing about a foot of clearance, maybe slightly less. No problems with the exhaust.  Will post pics when setup for a trip.  Overall… works for me fine…

-tob

Thanks - a foot or so should be enough.  Good news on the exhaust.

25

Exterior / Re: Stowaway Cargo Box & Mod

« on: December 08, 2015, 07:53:41 am »

That's a nice looking set up.  I like the idea of keeping the salon clear of packs and gear for keeping things neat and convenient. 

Couple of questions - how much space is there between the hatch and the box without your top rack?  Think it's a foot?  I've got a ladder on my hatch that extends just a bit over the bumper, sort of wonder if I could open the box without swinging it away from the hatch.  Could get an extender but don't want it hanging to far back.

Did you use exhaust shield or not a problem?

Also - next time your tinkering with your rack maybe shoot us some pics of it with nothing on it.

Thanks!!

26

Westfalia / Snow Drive

« on: November 25, 2015, 06:07:57 pm »

Wondering what you guys in whiter spaces like wrapped on your rubbers in winter time?  ATL doesn't give me much experience.  I may move move the EV out to CA as use for climb & ski platform - got a free place to stow it and love the eastern Sierras cause they are fantastic.  I know we only need chains only up front (hope CHP buys into this) and have seen Gowesty offerings. 

Related - I'm thinking I want the lift for some extra space tween the steels - got a lift with your chains?

27

Interior! / Re: Show us your stereo!

« on: November 24, 2015, 03:23:24 pm »

On the rear speakers, the grille snaps into the factory speaker frame.

I have not done it, but the only way I can see to put a replacement speaker in there is to cut the factory speaker out of the frame and mount a new speaker in that frame if you want to keep the factory grille. Not impossible at all but a little "tricky" is probably a good description. :-)

This goes back a way but I did installation of new rear speakers a little while ago and took pics in case others were considering the same.  Very straight forward procedure -> pop the grills, ditch the blown ones, zip the fresh ones, mod wiring and reinstall.

I don't have pics of the wiring mods but factory connectors don't work with my new Pioneers so clip, strip and go.  Sounds way better - not that this is an audiophile's delight but a blown speaker is a terrible thing.

I've got some trim pop tools but you could easily do this with fingers - just pry them off.



What you are up against:



Zippy mounting - no rattle here, ratcheted down tight.

28

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: EVC Pop-Top Struts?

« on: November 22, 2015, 06:31:00 am »

Hey,

I just posted this in the Yakima Rack thread but in case you aren't dialed into that one, here is a way to make the locking mechanism work:

One issue I've created with all the gear up top is overload on the pop top safety strut.  Accidentally disengaging the safety lock with a full load is simply a matter of rolling over in your sleep - the struts themselves are no longer capable of more than an assist.

I decided to add a second locking strut and ordered one from GoWesty.  When I took it out to the van it was far too long.  I sent GW tech a note and they advised it may need to be cut down.  So measuring it against stock I ended up cutting down the locking tube by 2" 

Additionally I've added a very simple backup for each locking strut - a flat overhand jam knot on a loop - it's always right there when you need it.  Sleep ez.

That does not fit:



Elevated so the shaft had room to drop down then multiple passes with the radial arm.  This can also be done with band saw or....



Using utility cord to set up compression for installation.  You've got to guess for stretch - took a few times to get that right. 

Two loops both set around the strut, use the large diameter tube for gripping, compress and slip the top loop over.





Jam knot as additional layer of protection - I was using this and front mtn bike wheel prior to adding 2nd strut!

29

Westfalia / Re: Yakima roof tracks on a Westfalia top.

« on: November 22, 2015, 06:23:14 am »

One issue I've created with all the gear up top is overload on the pop top safety strut.  Accidentally disengaging the safety lock with a full load is simply a matter of rolling over in your sleep - the struts themselves are no longer capable of more than an assist.

I decided to add a second locking strut and ordered one from GoWesty.  When I took it out to the van it was far too long.  I sent GW tech a note and they advised it may need to be cut down.  So measuring it against stock I ended up cutting down the locking tube by 2" 

Additionally I've added a very simple backup for each locking strut - a flat overhand jam knot on a loop - it's always right there when you need it.  Sleep ez.

That does not fit:



Elevated so the shaft had room to drop down then multiple passes with the radial arm.  This can also be done with band saw or....



Using utility cord to set up compression for installation.  You've got to guess for stretch - took a few times to get that right. 

Two loops both set around the strut, use the large diameter tube for gripping, compress and slip the top loop over.





Jam knot as additional layer of protection - I was using this and front mtn bike wheel prior to adding 2nd strut!

30

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: EVC Pop-Top Struts?

« on: October 06, 2015, 02:28:35 pm »

Interesting you are not able to take advantage of locking mechanism.  I just bought one of these so that I would have two lockers (not yet installed).  I have a rack with a load on top as well and nudged the one locker accidentally bringing the top down in a hurry - very uncool.

I'm in a 2003 model - what year are you?

For those looking to improvise a solution, I built a home made locker for my rear hatch out of aluminum tube.  The gap fits over the piston rod and locks in place against the gas cylinder / rod end.