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1
Diesel Swap Tech and FAQ / Re: How Far To Build Engine
« Last post by andrew on August 22, 2017, 12:07:25 PM »
You definitely want a VNT 17, and if your donor is a 1Z you want at least ALH pistons. If you're going to be flooring it a lot the bottom end will be under significant stress.

Get an EGT and manifold pressure gauge and watch for spikes and you'll be fine.
2
VR6 Engine tech / "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced
« Last post by erik.wahlstrom on August 20, 2017, 08:18:03 PM »
Got a CEL today.  Only 200 miles after a major transmission/electrical update.  Today I drove just a few miles and had no problem. Parked the car.  When I went to start it, it cranked but wouldn't turn over. IT's done this in the past when warm, so I gat it a little gas.  It started but the CEL came on.  When I got it home I scanned it:
  • P0011 - "A" Camshaft Position - timing Over-Advanced or System Performance
  • P0300 Random Multiple Cylinder is fire Detected
  • P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfile Detected
  • P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfile Detected
  • P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfile Detected
  • P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfile Detected
I let it cool for a few hours and it's still hard to start and runs really rough.
Any ideas? Please tell me it's not the timing chain.
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Diesel Swap Tech and FAQ / How Far To Build Engine
« Last post by jackjtr on August 20, 2017, 02:29:06 PM »
Hey guys,

After years of thinking about this swap, I finally have a clear garage bay and have just purchased my donor, a 1997 Passat TDI. I have yet to get a response from Frans @ Dutch Auto despite emailing him twice. I hope he is well.

My question is this: How far should I build the engine before installing it into my van? I will, at the least, be doing top end work such as stem seals and maybe a cam, but I'd rather leave the bottom alone.

I assume that with head studs, I should be able to get away with a VNT17 (or similar). My main goal is not a hot rod, but a majority of my driving takes place in the NYC area, where stop and go is vital to survival. So I will most likely end up with bigger injectors, a larger turbo, and a tune.

On top of all this, I'm on a bit of a budget, and I'd like to avoid opening the can of worms that is the bottom end.

Van is a 2002 MV with a burnt up torque converter and toasted reverse clutches. Don't ask who did it ;)
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Tires and wheels! / Re: Alignment specs
« Last post by filmshoot on August 16, 2017, 05:32:43 PM »
U try vwt4 forum?

just 2 thumbs, beware typos

5
Tires and wheels! / Re: Alignment specs
« Last post by pureinla on August 13, 2017, 11:35:57 PM »
It was a quickly typed request...

To clarify,
I'm looking for the different alignment specs from VW for all the different T4/Eurovans (the spec's change based on the different load rating "groups" the vans fall into). For the record, I have a lifted '99 Syncro Multivan which falls under group 2.

Anyone have them?
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Tires and wheels! / Re: Alignment specs
« Last post by filmshoot on August 13, 2017, 07:04:14 PM »
Which brand alignment. Machine?

just 2 thumbs, beware typos

7
Tires and wheels! / Alignment specs
« Last post by pureinla on August 13, 2017, 06:24:02 PM »
Does anyone happen to have the alignment specs for the different "groups"? Oddly, I can't seem to find them online.
Thanks in advance!
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CaveVan Stuff / Re: Weekender cabinet
« Last post by Janicee on August 12, 2017, 12:35:42 AM »


Thinking about producing these for MVs & weekenders to be picked up in Portland, OR.  Trying to gauge interest.  Basically a storage box & kitchenette with a transformer countertop workspace...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am starting work on Transit van and live in Mi.  I would be interested.  Janice 



Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk

9
Interior! / Armrest Nuts
« Last post by peter.haug@roadrunner.com on August 12, 2017, 12:20:23 AM »
I have found two replacement armrests for my (new to me) EV.  I now realize that the brazed-in nuts in the backrest have broken free and I have nothing to thread the armrests into.  Does anyone have a trick for fixing this?  My last resort is to drill out the backrest sheet metal to accept a M8 Rivnut. 
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Interior! / Re: How do you remove hatch panel
« Last post by peter.haug@roadrunner.com on August 12, 2017, 12:17:14 AM »
I found getting the panel off fairly reasonable, getting it back on was a real challenge.  A few things I learned that worked for me-
1.  Epoxy the plastic clips back on.  Clean the clips and the panel with isopropyl alcohol before gluing.  Note that the clips have different thickness because the panel and the hatch have some curvature.  I used the witness marks of the glue to figure out which clip went where.
2.  The metal clips on the hatch are impossible to engage when trying to slide the panel back on the hatch.  My solution was to cut small 1/2in spacers to pry the metal clips open enough to engage the plastic clips during reassembly.  I made little 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 spacers on the table saw, and used two per metal clip.  I put them in ever so slightly so that when the panel was slid in, the epoxied plastic clips knocked the spacers out while they engaged the metal clips.  See attached pic.  I actually had to make larger spacers than shown in the pic.  The pic was 3/8in and those weren't enough.
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