Recent Posts

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VR6 Engine tech / Re: 24v VR6 low oil pressure
« Last post by mastermarine on January 29, 2023, 06:40:12 pm »
I hooked up a pressure gauge set from Harbor Freight to the point where the oil pressure sensor goes and ran the engine. I found the oil pressure was great cold, warmed up, low rpm, and high rpm. I did notice the connector was easier to remove from the oil pressure sensor than those VW connectors usually are. I found a post on VW Vortex for another low oil pressure issue where someone shared a wiring diagram for the circuit. They also mentioned the oil pressure sensor (with its single lead) provides a resistance to ground (which it gets thru its body to the block). This resistance to ground is measured by the instrument cluster module. The instrument cluster module does not show low oil pressure at idle with an open circuit but does when the engine is revved up to about 2000 rpm. This had me thinking about how easy the lead was to disconnect. I think it was just not plugged in to the replacement OEM I put in earlier. I put the new OEM sensor back in and made sure the connector was all the way on. I tested it and no more oil pressure light! Hooray. I took it for a test run and no more Oil Pressure light.

So I screwed up and didn't plug the connector back on all the way when I replaced it. I hope my mistake helps someone out.
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VR6 Engine tech / 24v VR6 low oil pressure
« Last post by mastermarine on January 29, 2023, 01:35:38 pm »
Hi,
I have low oil pressure on my AXK. It is in my 2002 VW EV. Originally the issue showed as the oil pressure light would come on after driving under load for a while and then suddenly letting off the throttle. I pulled off the oil pressure sensor and replaced with a factory OEM unit. Now the light comes on on acceleration about 2000 RPM and then goes out when returned to idle. The engine has plenty of oil and is not clattering or making weird noises.

Has someone found a oil flow drawing for the VR6 24v?

Mike
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Winnebago "Full Campers" / 1995 Eurovan - Electrical/Battery Issue -
« Last post by ronicl on January 26, 2023, 06:30:12 pm »
(Face Palm). I replaced my house battery this morning and then noticed at lunch time something smelling. I disconnected the battery and realized I had reversed the connection. I disconnected the house battery.

I'm concerned about turning on the car or connecting the battery back.

Can someone let me know what I should do to avoid more damage, if any already.

Thanks!

Ronic
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Interior! / Exhaust smell inside
« Last post by athibault on January 25, 2023, 07:28:40 pm »
My mechanic found no leak on the exhaust system: manifold is ok, down pipes are good, but yet it still smells. Could it be related to the detaching gray foam flying through the vents! Would running a leak test be the next step? And can these test be done at shops like Mr.Muffler on an Eurovan 2002? Any ideas very much appreciated. Thanks


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Westfalia / 2002 Eurovan subfloor
« Last post by athibault on January 21, 2023, 10:45:56 pm »
I am planning to install an Engel Transit Slide Lock in my 2002 Eurovan Weekender but wondering if the subfloor is made of wood? The slide lock will be installed behind the driver's seat. Thanks


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16
General Discussion / Re: T6 in USA?
« Last post by Theivized on December 12, 2022, 05:45:08 am »
The BC-1, a fixed gear, tandem, 450hp Basic Combat Trainer that was first flown in 1938, served as the basis for the AT-6. The well-deserved categorization of this aircraft as an Advanced Trainer is shown by the AT-6 designation. The T-6 was and is still a great pilot training aircraft. Visit The Site
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Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Seattle area repair shop for '99 eurovan recomendation
« Last post by rag47 on September 22, 2022, 04:23:12 pm »
I recommend Eastside Autoworks in Bellevue.  They are experts on VW vans and campers.
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Winnebago "Full Campers" / Seattle area repair shop for '99 eurovan recomendation
« Last post by AlanN on September 21, 2022, 01:21:07 pm »
Hi I have a 99 and we need new engine mounts, sway bars, cooling T's  engine flush and electric door lock repair.  Any recommendation on a good shop in Western WA?  Im on San Juan Island but I can take it anywhere from Bellingham to Olympia. 
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Exterior / Re: Lifting a t4 advice
« Last post by Theivized on August 24, 2022, 12:56:50 am »
Remove any packages or boxes that were loaded into the trunk. Place those items in a safe spot in your home or garage. If you plan on moving certain items, make sure you label the boxes and take note of the contents. Seeing 777
20
VR6 Engine tech / Re: VR6 Coolant System Diagram
« Last post by cbseven on July 06, 2022, 09:24:35 am »
Thanks Cole.

One other thing for simplification that I was looking at the other day -- was to run the front and rear heat exchangers in series, rather than in parallel. This would allow the removal of some T-junctions and the flow control valve. I figure the front heater core performance won't be affected, and the rear core already seems like the weaker of the two - so it would clean up things quite a bit. One hose from the back of the cylinder head to the front heater core, then the return line goes straight down to the hard lines for the rear heater and then back to the recirculation inlet on the thermostat housing.

Another thing I looked at -- but its more for those who don't drive in freezing temperatures, is that the throttle body coolant line (which heats the throttle body to prevent freezing up) can be removed. This would eliminate and clean up the coolant lines as well - eliminating another couple of T junctions. The return line from the throttle body is pretty ugly -- just a long 3ft hose that drapes over the engine. One other option here to clean this up (rather than to delete) -- is to route the return line (off the TB) back into the front heater cores' return line. Not as clean, but certainly more elegant and retains function.

Itsamoto - love that idea, and just wanted to follow up on this to see if you have tried this setup. I might give it a shot here soon, as I am about to replace the upper coolant pipes and crossover/crack pipe.
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