[Itsamoto]

Honestly -- so much of this would be a lot easier if I just stuck with the using the factory parts, instead of trying to make other things fit.

Alright - -so I finally had a chance to put the new clutch setup on and I'm pretty happy with the setup. There are issues - things I had overlooked that I am working on. The whole thing has shadows of what I experienced with fitting the starter, where the starter ring placement changed going from DMF to SMF. Well, in this case the depth of the clutch assembles (flywheel, disc, pressure plate) are different as well - which means my concentric slave cylinder (CSC) throw-out bearing may not engage the clutch properly. The 02G's original DMF clutch setup is deeper, sitting at about 85mm when measured from the block to the top of the clutch plate diaphragm springs. The VR6 SMF setup, measures at about 69mm height. And there is also a difference in depth of the bell housing -- with the 02G-AFL being deeper by about 5-8mm.  These are some of the factors at play here that I am coming to terms with.

Now my test fitment over the SMF-VR6 went really well. Everything fits nicely, except for the 6-8mm space between the 02G-AFL throwout bearing and the clutch pressure plate.

New VR6 Clutch

Mounted on Good BDF

VR6 Clutch Diaphragm Springs

Flat diaphragm springs.

Not sure why this is so flat -- perhaps it will gain height /angle once the pressure plate is torqued down? I assume that the flatter this is, the softer the pedal touch will be (less fulcrum to overcome)?

For a comparison, and to get the total depth measurement, I mounted up the 02G-AFL clutch components to Lucille's original (BAD AXG). This clutch assembly had a total height of about 85mm -- of which some may be attributable to the high-angle of the diaphragm springs. Now, are these steep pitched springs normal (making for a hard clutch pedal) - or is this a sign of warn clutch? This was actually so high that I couldn't test fit the transaxle over top of this without the CSC bearing compressing the diaphragm springs by about 5-8mm - which makes me think this is not right. Very difficult in the test scenario.

02G DMF Clutch

Mounted to Good BDF

02G DMF Clutch -- Close up

[Itsamoto]

One thing I'm not sure about is how much the throw out bearing should be engaged with the clutch pressure plate. LUK's literature mentions free play of 3-5mm -- however many other sources of diagrams and examples show the throw-out bearing being in constant contact with the pressure plate springs when the clutch is not engaged. Going by the example of test fitting on 02G DMF would have clearly required the throw out bearing to be in constant contact. Yet with the VR6-SMF setup, the throw out bearing is too far away -- and this may result in a very soft, or slipping clutch. For the time being I am aiming for 3-5mm of space between the throw out bearing and the diaphragm springs.

To close the gap, I first thought about using spacers or standoffs on the throw out bearing housing. Then I remembered some items that came off Lucille's good old automatic transmission -- the flex plate had a shim and washer that matched the crankshaft mounting pattern.

Shim/Compensation Washer

PN 021105303C

It turns out that there are a range of shims used on the VR6s, ranging from 0.4 to 2.4mm thick that I now know could be used to help dial in the bearing engagment. The only issue is that as it mounts behind the flywheel, so it takes a long time to put them on and off. If needed I'll order more (but pricey), or go the yard and look for VR6 automatics to open up.

[INDENT]021105301 = 0.5mm washer
021105303  = 0.4mm
021105303A = 0.8mm
021105303B = 1.2mm
021105303C = 1.6mm
021105303D = 2.0mm
021105303E = 2.4mm[/INDENT]

So, to test I used both the shim (1.6mm thick) and the washer (0.5mm thick) combined to move the flywheel and clutch assembly closer to the throw out bearing. As a bonus, this should also improve the percentage of engagement of the starter gear pinion and ring. :thumbup:

The following picture I took with my phone  -- I was able to get a decent shot inside the bell housing through the clutch bleeder opening. With a rough measure, I think I managed to get the free play spacing (distance between CSC bearing and pressure plate down to approximately 4-6mm.

Bearing to Pressure Plate spacing

Shown: concentric slave cylinder bearing housing, to which the bearing face sits flush.

[Itsamoto]

Well a small milestone today... I pulled out most of the automatic transmission wiring and the gear selector. I was looking at doing it earlier, but always seem to find another thing that was bit more important at the moment. Funny how something as simple as a hole in the floor can feel like progress.

01P Wiring Harness and TCU


After struggling with it for a while -- I pulled the transmission computer module first, which left lots of room to feed the harness through. It also helps to bend the wiring panel holder out of the way too. 

Transmission Computer Cave


Then everything can simply be disconnected - no need yet to rip anything out from the back of the wiring panel.

What I haven't removed -- is this little bit of wiring from the automatic selector - it routes back the wiring panel under the carpet.  The open connector is probably for for the shift lock solenoid -- but there is also a little "limit" switch here as well -- not sure what this is. Any ideas?

Transmission selector wiring

[albertr]

Nice progress, Itsamoto! If you figure out the schematics for that wiring harness to automatic gear shift selector, please let us know.

-albertr

[Itsamoto]

Nice progress, Itsamoto! If you figure out the schematics for that wiring harness to automatic gear shift selector, please let us know.

-albertr

Thanks A. Yes the mystery "switch" is actually a light to illuminate the floor shift console.    Mine never worked - but it might be worth upgrading or fixing for those who are interested.

[Itsamoto]

Something of interest, here. I have read lots of threads where automatic transmission problems are sometimes treated with a new TCU. Whether or not that is truly necessary, I don't know. But looking at the cost of these rare items, the resemblance to the 01M transmission computer is uncanny and there is already lots of evidence that these transmissions are programmed similarly. Not sure if anybody has ever tried swapping these -- but I think its worth a shot to pick one up from the scrap yard and take a look if you suspect TCU failure. 

Transmission Computer

PN 01P 927 733.

[albertr]

Doh! I always wanted to add illumination to gearshift selector@ It's good to know that VW already routed a wire there, however - is it connected anywhere on the other end? Can you trace where this wire is going to?

Obviously it never worked on my 2001 EVC either, I wonder if VW put it there "just in case" or it actually *IS* supposed to work?

-albertr

[Itsamoto]

Doh! I always wanted to add illumination to gearshift selector@ It's good to know that VW already routed a wire there, however - is it connected anywhere on the other end? Can you trace where this wire is going to?

Obviously it never worked on my 2001 EVC either, I wonder if VW put it there "just in case" or it actually *IS* supposed to work?

-albertr

Yes it's fully wired up -- routes under the carpet back to the main relay area and then into the spaghetti.

Here's the grey connector coming back to the main harness...



The red connector is the solenoid switch -- and it goes to the TCU harness.



And here's the light with the red "condom" off of it -- it's item L79 (Selector Lever Light) on the schematic...



It would make a great DIY to convert this to an LED. I think most of us who bought these vans (second hand) never realized it was supposed to be lit up in the first place.









 

[albertr]

Great, thanks Itsamoto! Any idea why this light didn't work in the first place? Busted bulb or something else?

-albertr

[Itsamoto]

Great, thanks Itsamoto! Any idea why this light didn't work in the first place? Busted bulb or something else?

-albertr

Yes, just a burnt out bulb.

I supposed I could use this line to supply an illuminated shift knob -- eBay has one for T4's. But - I gotta say, these are disgustingly ugly. Much prefer the regular shift boot. I would be much happier to just find the illuminated knob.



Source: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/VW-T4-Bus-shift-gear-knob-gaiter-illuminated-leather-real-leather-LED-NEW-/370743042855?hash=item565201e327

[Itsamoto]

While I've started removing the wiring, I also took out the pedal set out to convert over. Gives some room to work there too.

It's all pretty easy stuff actually. In my original kit, I was supplied with the pedal set from an early eurovan - and it included the whole back plate -- which you don't need to change out (unless you like doing things the hard way).
Its a easy decision to use the Lucille's current pedal set. First off, the potentiometer support bracket is welded in place. Secondly, the newer brake light switches are designed to be non-removable (one time only installation). The existing pedal set already has the necessary mounts for the clutch components already.

This is all pretty straight forward once you remove the pedal cluster (disconnect the brake light switch, brake booster, potentiometer -- and then like 6 bolts (4 on back plate and 2 from above). The hardest is part of which is reaching those top bolts - but all in all very easy.

Supplied Pedals from kit


Automatic Pedal Set


Pedal Set Comparison

L-R: Supplied Manual Pedals, Clutch Master Cylinder, Automatic Pedal Set


I bought this cheap knock off master cylinder at the same time I bought the cheap knock off slave cylinder (which I decided not to use). Its a pretty simple device, so I will use it for now. I figure that if it starts to leak - its easy enough to change out. It's the same part number as the OEM -- but for whatever reason its missing the sleave on the plunger.  :mad:

Clutch Master Cylinder

PN# 701721401B

The switch over is pretty straight forward from here -- remove the pedal pin from each and swap over the clutch and thinner brake pedal from the manual set to the pedal set with the potentiometer.

Just remember -- don't try and remove this brake light switch -- it's one time install item. If you do break it -- its $5 for the knock off version and probably $40 for the OEM.

Brake Light Switch

DO NOT REMOVE THIS!

Now there is one thing that I got hung up on -- and maybe you guys can fill me in on this. The older, manual pedal set has a brake pedal return spring, while the automatic setup did not. I decided to leave it off, as I figure its probably left off on late model vans that have ABS and ESP -- which are computer manipulated processes of the brake hydraulics. I figure, the spring is left off because it can interfere with those systems. I tried to check my two Jettas (one as ESP, the other does not)  -- and the Bentley shows nothing -- but too much of a pain to get at just to "compare" things. I got lazy.

Brake Pedal Return Spring w/Sleave

To use, or not to use?

Put all back together and you get this...

Manual Swap Pedal Set w/Potentiometer


Once I finish some of the wiring -- I will reinstall!

[Itsamoto]

So while I have the exhaust manifolds off -- I took a bit of time this weekend to clean them up. The Eurovan's AXK manifold differs in shape and construction from the BDF. The difference in construction is that the BDF manifold is entirely cast -- where as the AXK's is welded together. I don't know what may make one better than the other (weight, airflow?) - but I do know that the Eurovan's had a lot of slag where the flanges and pipes are welded together. The slag bump is significant and easy to feel -- but I don't know if it was really enough to restrict airflow. I am not an expert. Either way, I ground out the slag to smooth the entry and exits of the manifold -- increasing the ports by about about 0.5-1.0mm each.

Eurovan AXK Exhaust Manifold

Non-ported, shown "normal" exposure

Hard to see the the amount of slag in the picture (you can certainly feel it by finger). So this increased exposure shows it a bit better.

Eurovan AXK Exhaust Manifold

Non-ported, shown "increased" exposure


BDF Cast Exhaust Manifold

These might be slightly tighter all around, but the ports at least lack the slag ring on the inside.

And the results of the first grinding session...

Modified -- Eurovan AXK Exhaust Manifold

Mildly-ported, shown "normal" exposure

Much smoother entry, matches the gasket much better now with out the ring of "speed bumps". :thumbup:

An the down pipe side (not shown) also suffers from this, so I if get some better grinding tools I may tackle it as well in the off chance that this helps.

[Itsamoto]

Blue Clock Clusters

Top to Bottom: Automatic Eurovan Canadian-market, Manual Jetta Canadian-market -- different but the same.


Ok here is some interesting and new stuff regarding the Eurovan "blue clock" cluster. There really isn't much out there on this (as far as I can tell) - there is a thread from back in '04 where some guys were trying to swap an EV cluster into a Cabrio. Interestingly they noted how similar the late model EV was to the 3.5 Cabrio in terms of interior (switches etc) -- sort of caught between Mk3 and Mk4 style evolutions. Maybe this cluster swap info needs its own thread  -- an interesting topic that could be fleshed out more. Its actually one of my favourite things about this generation of VW - the blue/red cluster. I've owned a couple of Mk4 Jettas and B5.5 Passat (with a MAF cluster) and now 2 vans -- so the blue cluster feels "right" to me, its second nature.

As Lucille is originally an American-market van, it's cluster face is predominantly imperial "miles" and here, I would prefer it to be in KM. It sort helps keep the speeding tickets down. :laugh: So shortly after I bought the van - I was collecting parts (rear bench headrests of course) for the van and the seller happened to have a Canadian-market van and had swapped the cluster out for an imperial cluster. So yay for me - metric cluster! I used the famous page from the UK T4 group as a basis for verifying what I was going to buy (Linkage: http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=86937).

So I've had that Canadian-EV cluster on the shelf for quite a while - and never got around to installing it. Then when I parted the 03 MK4 GLI -- I kept the cluster, key and ECU as I knew it was a mated set (for immobilizer 3). Well just on a hunch, I thought we should put these clusters side by side to see if there was more than just a resemblance and see if they were swappable. This works for me as I;m going to a manual setup, but the principle is the same for all the other late-model vans out there - because it means finding a metric or imperial cluster is that much easier, and now you can upgrade to trip computer and nav-integrated clusters as well (such as the MAF and FIS models). I'm not going to touch the material around immobilizer 2 and 3 -- or how to reprogram or delete the immobilizer here. I don't know it well enough -- and there are plenty of good writeups on it that have been generated by hyper-miling tdi fanatics. The trip computers here allow all that fancy mileage tracking, and fuel estimations to be made -- although this mod also requires a special stock-arm that allows the driver to interface with the computer. Worth exploring - this is a good upgrade - Link: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=48366

So here is a quick swap using my two extra clusters to look at...

Looking at the cluster shape -- the plastic lens are at such dramatically different angles, and the overall shape seems so much different, different mounting tabs, etc  -- that you would think these are two different animals. But if you look at them from behind, they use the same connections, and the cluster actually splits in half (front/back) and that's what makes the cluster swap possible. BTW - these are both VDO made clusters, apparently there are also Bosch-made blue clusters (MAF and FIS models I suspect).

Rear Harness Connection

Top to Bottom: Eurovan Canadian-market, Jetta Canadian-market

Cluster Case Clips

Top to Bottom: Eurovan Canadian-market, Jetta Canadian-market

Lined up back to back -- there are 4 clips along the top, and then (not shown) there are 2 clips on the bottom and then 2 T10 screws on the side that hold/separate the front fascia half from the cluster electronics half.

Cluster Electronics

Top to Bottom: Eurovan Canadian-market, Jetta Canadian-market

So for me -- this swap basically gets me metric and drops the transmission selector display (it will also align my milage indicator with the motor). And if you didn't know this yet, but those cluster faces are removable - and there are bunches of after-market customizable clock faces available for the Mk4 platform.

Now there are some differences to these in terms of warning lights/locations - but I think the addressing is the same (so less of an issue). I used a flash light and peeled the face plates up enough to illuminate the panel.

Where the EV has this...

Eurovan EPC dash light


The MK4 has this...

Mk4 Immobilzer dash light


And, where the EV has this...

Eurovan: 6 warning lights in "centre"


The MK4 has this...

Mk4: 8 warning lights in "centre"

The extras here being "door open", "hood open" and "bulb out indicator" .

Guess we'll have to wait and see if these will stay out if I install it in the van.

And finally... swap the front fascia and snap it back together....

Manual cluster for EV


EDIT -- I just noticed that on the new assembly -- that the control knobs are longer on the MK4 cluster and so stick out even further (+ 8-10mm) on the EV fascia. Certainly something that can be easily swapped as well.

[Itsamoto]

A recent trip to the local scrap yard proved fruitful for gathering some of the little bits still needed. I picked up a reverse light wiring connector -- its same as on MK3 and some early Mk4 manuals. It was it pretty dirty -- but I also saw that Mk3 golfs have the same electrical connector used for a hood-closed switch -- which was much cleaner being up at the top of the engine housing. And I walked around a picked up some of these metal temperature sensor clips -- to replace the plastic ones currently used to hold sensors in the thermostat housing. Big thanks to KBATTPO for that tip. :thumbup:

Junk Yard Bits


And I also picked up the clutch switch out of a MK4 Jetta. You can use one from a Mk3 as well -- the difference is the Mk3 will have a vacuum line attached for cruise control. Fits perfectly with the T4 pedal set.  I had thought of leaving it out as I just don't really use cruise control -- but apparently the Motronic 7 ECU tempers throttle when the clutch is engaged (so gotta have it).

Clutch Switch MK4


Fitted Switch


One thing I found interesting while rummaging in an old Passat -- was the shift knob looked very familiar...

Passat and EV Shift Knobs


Identical to the EV shifter!

However, for the 02G setup though, I found this new through the local dealership for about $11.

02G Shift Knob

02G w/reverse below 5th

Surely not necessary, but a nice touch and it will help keep Mrs.Itsamoto from getting stuck in the parking lot.

[Itsamoto]

Another lucky find.

Backstory from last weekend: So this weekend I went to look at a local 2002 GLS (~100k miles, one owner). The owned has replaced the iginition switch and got new keys with it -- but haven't adapted them to the immobilizer. So the car turns over and starts for one second and then cuts out -- seems like standard immo activation/deactivation. Well I thought I could outsmart the car -- I pulled apart covers around the steering wheel and the lower knee-panel so I could disconnect the iginition switch. Then I put the original van key into the ignition (to be read by the coil - it can't turn the cylinder) and then hot-wired the ignition switch. It cranks away tirelessly -- but no spark/fuel. Is there a tie-in to the fuel pump here that I have missed? I know on my Jetta, just getting into the car beqins a sequence of the priming the fuel pump (which I can hear). Is there something similar on the Eurovan?

2002 EV GLS


So I went back to that van that I found locally and managed to get it started. I had called in a local "vw-tuner" to come and adapt the keys to the immobilizer for me, but he was unsuccessful. He used Vag-tacho (gosh that is such a bad name)  to try and pull the SKC which is needed to login to VCDS when adapting new keys. No dice. We worked on if for a hour or so -- and he confessed he didn't know how to retrieve it from the Van (despite a couple days of researching it ahead of time). :banghead: I guess that pulling the SKC from these is not the cake walk I thought it would be.

Anyhow -- I took the keys with me and sat down for dinner. :beer: Using a small screwdriver, I was able to open up the existing key and split open the new key -- swapping the transponder chips. Returned to the car (one last time - I thought)  -- and it started on the first try and I drove it home! Drivetrain is smooth! :thumbup:

Paid $2500 CDN  -- for a one owner van with a scant 165k km (~103k miles) -- less than half the mileage that Lucille has on her! Owner is an older man and himself a Eurovan enthusiast  -- this was his second Eurovan, the previous a 1992 LWB with double sliders that he had also bought new. He said he had to special order the van through the dealership as these years were so scarce in Canada -- paying $50k CDN for it back then (holy bad exchange rate). His family then used the van primarily for transporting their son who is wheel-chair bound - and that the van had transmission problems at 90k km and the dealership bungled the transmission repair job twice. The second time they used a rebuilt transmission and the torque converter "came apart" damaging both the engine and the transmission. So I guess the dealership ended up replacing the engine and he got a new transmission air-freighted in from Germany  -- all about 40k km ago!!! Its almost too good to be true -- so I will have to get in there and see if I can find some build-date codes off of the transmission.

Now it's not all roses... the key issue is a good example of that. With 3 keys for the van -- the original can open the doors, and then one converted iginition key can be used to start the van. I'm going to have to get the keys properly adapted and then probably talk to a locksmith about getting matching lock cores.

New Ignition Switch

Covers still off from a night of trying everything I got to get her going.

Interior Folded Down

Notice blue seatbelt restraint on RHS -- used for wheelchaired passengers

Check out this awful rust patch on the drivers side -- easily the size of a softball.

Rust Ball


The passenger area has four of these wheel chair tie downs installed - a good reason to rip out the rear carpet and install some rubber flooring.

Wheel Chair Tie Down


Interior is a bit worn as well  -- here you can see the drivers seat cushion has been damaged -- there is basically a hole in the cushion where my finger is. I'll try pulling the seat cushion from one of the middle row captains chairs for a replacement.

Worn Drivers Seat Cushion


Drivers side door arm-rest -- worn down to nothing. I guess some people really like to use this.

Worn Arm-rest


Some other issues inside (to be anticipated) -- 2 broken armrests, dirty carpet and enough dog hair to knit a sweater.

And last but not least, some nice bonuses that came along with the van. New filters -- Oil, Fuel, Air and Cabin. New centre-caps for the wheels. 1.5L of G12 coolant.

Filters!


Oh and I got this too -- hopefully I can transfer the license over. :thumbup:

Bentley EV DVD