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VR6 Engine tech / 5spd manual clutch master/slave hose

« on: June 18, 2020, 07:38:46 am »

The OE master/slave hose and related OE part numbers appear to be NLA now.  Need input on getting a hose made, or where I can buy the ends needed to make a hose.

The OE hose itself is 701721477D which looks to use the same push fit ends as 2000ish and newer Audi/VWs, see attached image.  The hard line through the firewall also uses this connection (M12x1 at the master).  The slave has a funky threaded connection with an extended o-ring for sealing.  Need to figure out how to adapt from the hardline to a hose and from the hose to the slave's connection.

Ideas?

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Show off your projects here! / Re: Project Lucille -- EVW VR6 Manual Conversion

« on: June 15, 2020, 02:49:52 pm »

Regarding the clutch line... Vw doesn't make the line for the eurovan 5sp anymore.  So I had a ss line made from Parker hoses and fittings.  For my 1.9tdi, 02d setup the line is 30" long with 2 90 degree m12.1 fittings. One fitting is offset by 90 degrees.
I also replaced all my brake lines to ss while I was doing this.


just 2 thumbs, beware typos

My kit didn't include the hose and I'll need to get one made.  I see your hose has male ends where as the slave and hose through firewall from master also have male ends.  what did you use to adapt the line?  thinking of trying to order with female ends.

3

Westfalia / Re: Need Help finding 87a connector, e30 wiring

« on: April 25, 2017, 04:25:30 pm »

Should anyone seek out this same issue....its fixed for me but I don't know what I did.  I traced the harness from the various sensors back into the firewall with the battery out.  Pulled down the fuse block to see if anything seemed out of place...pretty much anything I could do. And with that....the CEL was off and the codes will no longer pop (no CEL in cluster and Scan Gauge doesn't show any codes).

I realized there is no 87a connector, the 87a designation is which pole of the fuel pump relay the harness gets power from.  The e30 wiring is the leg of the engine bay harness which connects to the sensors.

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Westfalia / Need Help finding 87a connector, e30 wiring

« on: April 10, 2017, 06:40:23 pm »

I've got a bunch of codes which all point to an issue with the harness or a fuse issue since my research indicates they're all on the same circuit.  I need some help identifying the location of a few of the connectors.  I have a wiring harness diagram and a link which describes how everything connects....just missing the exact location of the items in the engine bay.

In the link (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4067111-2002-Eurovan-Full-Camper-(winnie)-Short-to-ground-faults) I found I believe S117 under the dash attached to the underside of the main fuses, labeled '11'.  I found the wiring harness from the MAF and down towards the O2...but can't seem to trace it back to the drivers side under the hood.

Any tips on where to find the 87a connector or e30 wiring?

My CELs:
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
            P1425 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
            P1472 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17843 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299)
            P1435 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
            P1421 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B1 S2
            P1117 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17876 - EVAP Canister Solenoid Valve 2 (N115)
            P1468 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17606 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B1 S2
            P1198 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
            P0102 - 35-00 - Signal too Low
17523 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating: B1 S1
            P1115 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17511 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1
            P1103 - 35-00 - Performance too Low
17923 - Intake Manifold Valve (N156)
            P1515 - 35-00 - Short to Ground

5

Westfalia / Re: Yakima roof tracks on a Westfalia top.

« on: August 06, 2016, 09:10:57 am »

Thanks.  I ended up using 1.5" for the 4 middle bolts and 1.75" for the ends due to the extra end caps (and not having had enough 1.5" bolts! ).

6

Westfalia / 12v sockets don't work

« on: August 05, 2016, 06:13:56 pm »

Since I bought my van in the spring none of the 12v sockets have worked (either side of the bed in the rear or in the dash).  I was able to get a copy of the Bentley page for the 12v socket wring listing three outlets making me wonder if its for the Camper rather than a MV Weekender.  I've checked all the fuses under the dash and the three under the drivers seat and none are visibly blown.

Anyone have specifics on the fuse location for an '01 Weekender or other tips/tricks?

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Westfalia / Re: Yakima roof tracks on a Westfalia top.

« on: July 29, 2016, 02:05:21 pm »

Couple of notes - as Cole pointed out the Yakima supplied track bolts are too short.  I believe they are fine thread and I had a hard time locating via Home Depot / Ace so bought them online.

Anyone have measurements for the bolts used to replace the provided ones? 

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Westfalia / Re: Yakima roof tracks on a Westfalia top.

« on: June 12, 2016, 04:04:34 pm »

Anyone used Thule tracks?

9

Westfalia / Re: Replacing the carpet with vinyl (or other) flooring.

« on: May 05, 2016, 03:41:46 pm »

Are there options for floor mats without completely removing the carpeting? 

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Westfalia / Testing/Troubleshooting Weekender Cooler

« on: May 05, 2016, 03:40:42 pm »

I'm having a hard time searching for threads specific to the cooler found OE in the weekender models, most threads about coolers are about people looking for non OE solutions.

I bought a '01 recently and was told the cooler had some issues.  I've found where it plugs in...and that there is a toggle switch on the rear of the unit but I know nothing else as to what expectation I should have for cooling speed, sounds it would make under normal operating conditions, etc.

What have others tested or troubleshot with the OE cooler?  I really like that the cooler is tucked away and doesn't take up additional floor space or require removal of the jump seat so fixing it or replacing it with something that would fit under the seat seems ideal.

thanks!