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Messages - robinson1509

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76
VR6 Engine tech / Re: HELP! Stuck in Provo
« on: June 19, 2016, 06:18:17 pm »
Thats a lot of miles could be chains. But if you want to be optimistic and assume it is a cps then yes it is very likely a dealership would have one. The oil pressure / chain tensioner can throw a cam code.

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77
VR6 Engine tech / Re: HELP! Stuck in Provo
« on: June 19, 2016, 05:39:01 pm »
You should post more details. 12 or 24v, specific misfire codes, was the cel flashing, rough idle, stalling, mileage...

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78
Hey I just noticed your readiness is zeroed out. Is the mil on? Have you cleared the codes to see if they all return? If you clear your codes log the scan first for reference.

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79
Yes it is unlikely to be a cam sensor.

80
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Porsche engine swap? Would it fit?
« on: May 20, 2016, 09:24:48 pm »
You can bore the 2.8 to a 3.0.   

81
Exterior / Re: Brake pad wear sensor (2000)
« on: May 20, 2016, 07:35:51 pm »
On the 2000 the sensors are on the front left and rear right. There is a wire that goes to the pad undo the connector and check the continuity. It is simply a wire embedded in the pad, when it wears through the circuit is broken the light comes on. If you change the pads and the light does not go off you have a bad wire or connector. You can code off the light with a vag or obd eleven. Just go to 17 (instrument panel) and subtract 1 from the second digit. My coding is 03261 so I would change it to 02261.
My inspection was due on my 2000 and I was planning to buy new rotors and pads but I did not have the time to order and install them. My rotors were worn badly with high ridges and deep scores but the pads had a lot of life left on them.  Rotors are relatively inexpensive now days, I guess that it why nobody want to turn them any more. Years ago every service station had a brake lathe. I jacked up my van put the jack stands under took off the wheels started the van and dropped it in low gear and put a file to the rotors. I passed my inspection the breaks work great and I will order a new set of ceramic pads and drilled cross vented rotors to install as soon as the pad wear light comes on. I have noticed the drilled rotors last longer, run cooler, look nicer, and cost about the same.

82
Is it running, making chain noise, was other work done recently, when was the last oil change? Hopefully you have a vagcom, and a voltmeter. You have codes for both sensors (g163 and g28) thats not a good sign. If you ignore the evap codes for now the common thread for the other codes would be the 220 ground and the intermittent codes could indicate a bad connection or failing sensor.  The 220 ground is the brown wire right next to the ecu but that would most likely throw knock sensor codes as well. Start by using your volt meter checking the 1 and 3 pins on the cam sensor/s for a voltage in the range of 11 to 12 volts (switch on engine off). I think the g163 and the g40 cam sensors are the same. If the voltage is ok then probe from the sensors to the J220 on the  ecu. To  the right side of the battery. If you look close at the connector you will see indicator numbers on the connector. The number one pin on the g40 and the g163 both go to the number 98 pin on the 220 connector, so using your continuity tester test both #1 pins to 98. Then test the #2 on the g40 to the 87 on the J220, and the #2 on the g163 to the 86 on the J220. If the voltage and continuity test okay then just replace them both. If you have a vag com check you timing and post some engine data so we can look at it. Timing, load, temp, fuel trim, rpm...  With out some data we are just guessing :)

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83
Did you have a code for the cps? Isn't there 2 (b1-cyl 1, 3, 5 bank2-cyl 2, 4, 6) sensors on the 24v? Sometimes a cam sensor code can be an indication of a chain problem. Test the sensor first and do the valve cover gasket.




84
VR6 Engine tech / Re: 12V cam chain noise
« on: May 15, 2016, 09:07:18 pm »
This is for a 12 valve it is a manual tensioner. I never thought the hydrolic tensioners went bad until I saw it with my own eyes. The play in the piston caused it to bind.

85
VR6 Engine tech / Re: 2002 EV - Oil pressure alarm issue
« on: May 14, 2016, 05:05:13 pm »
Thanks for the update.  It's always comforting when it is a small issue.  Before I purchased my EVC, no one told me (although I suspected) that it would be a high maintenance relationship.
Yes the ev is expensive, high maintenance, and fun to ride. Mmmm kinda reminds me of my old lady. :)

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86
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Engine Operating Temperature?
« on: May 14, 2016, 03:52:29 pm »
If you want it to run cooler you can use a lower temperature radiator switch from a 2.0 beetle. I think that is a 150 and the van uses a 180deg. Not sure why you would want to do that but it works.

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87
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Traction Control and ABS Light
« on: May 14, 2016, 12:09:18 pm »
Sounds like a wheel speed sensor. A quick vag scan should tell you, otherwise you can jack up the wheel and check them with an volt/ohm meter. If it is an intermittent problem inspect the wires for physical damage or rust buildup on the toner rings. Unclip the speed sensor and put volt meter probes on the sensor terminals and spin the wheel you should get a few millivolts with a passive sensor. Check the bently for specific volt and ohm readings. Without a scan you could spend hours or days chasing the problem. It is possible that your blower problem could be related but not likely that it would not work entirely.  If you suspect vacuum start by checking the small hose on the upper center of the firewall between the heater supply hoses. The climatronic uses input from the vehicle speed sensor ( the vss) , the ambient outside temperature with the g17 (small nib on the bumper next top the license plate) and the sunlight with a photo sensor (on the dash to the left) to modulate the blower fan speed and maintain the set temperature accurately. I never had traction control on my vans so I have not studied them much but it would seem reasonable that it uses speed input and makes adjustment to the throttle control with the wheel sensors and steering angle sensor feedback. So best guess, in my opinion, would be to check the front wheel sensors (g45 and g46), but my suggestion would be to do a full vag scan first.

88
VR6 Engine tech / Re: 24V Tensinoner Failure
« on: May 07, 2016, 04:16:04 pm »
This is for a 12 valve it is a manual tensioner.

89
VR6 Engine tech / Re: 2003 EV Rough Idle on Startup
« on: May 07, 2016, 08:04:55 am »
The diaphragm on the combi valve can deteriorate and create a vacuum leak on start up when the engine is cold. If you use the vagcom go in to basic settings group 000 and look at block 2 and if the number is below 28 you have a vacuum leak.
when I took this pic I disconnected the vac hose to the egr. You also want to check the long term fuel regulation a positive trim could be indication of injector problems. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to check for leakdown on injectors. Subtractive trim can indicate un metered air. Of course  when looking at fuel trims the maf and o2 sensors could always be causing  symptoms  this data will simply give you direction to focus your diagnostics.

90
Want to buy something? / Bed board and coushin
« on: May 01, 2016, 04:12:06 pm »
I have been looking for a reasonably priced bed board and coushin for a 2000 mv. I probably would never use the bed so I would not want to pay too much.



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