CaveVan Forum
VW T4 "Eurovans" => Winnebago "Full Campers" => Topic started by: DRotblatt on June 08, 2015, 01:02:41 am
-
New to the forum...although it looks like the forum is new too. Good to see!
What kind of mods, gadgets or additions have you done to your Camper (or Weekender) to make it more workable?
I'm just buying a '95 Eurovan camper (tomorrow), and going to sell my '85 Vanagon weekender. For the weekender I built a beautiful kitchen box (which I won't need in the new full camper), added a bench/drawer behind the passenger seat that the the box sits on, installed a second battery, made a front seat bed for my now 12 y.o. son. I've been looking around for stuff people had built or modified on the interior of the Eurovan and apart from the GoWesty "Fridge elimination kit" I can't find a post showing a single homemade cabinet, shelf, alteration...anything! :'( With the Vanagon the is a plethora of things done to and with it. I can't believe this is not true for Eurovans...we're the same creative group, aren't we?
So far, since I'll be leaving for a camping trip in 10 days, I'm looking to make a hammock for over the front seats before I go (that way the kids can sleep apart). Here's a Vanagon idea on Samba that I like: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=381648&start=20 I just have to see if it'll work with the window configuration in the Eurovan. If not, I'll just put a board across the front seats which is what I did for my Vanagon
Anyway, I'd love to see some pics of what you people have done.
-
Welcome to the forum! You are right there are not many EVC modification threads out there. I have one in the "Show Off Your Projects" section of "Pictures and Tall Tales". Briefly, these are the projects I took on in order of importance:
1) replace refrigerator (I choose a DC only version), also added drawer under new fridge.
1a) move indicator LEDs to new location and add DC power and USB outlets and little shelf above sink that Westies have.
2) replace house batteries to add capacity for new fridge
3) remove inverter and add good dual battery charger to charge both house and starter batteries
4) replace cheap rear cabinets that squeak when you roll over at night with aluminum and wood versions
5) replace footboard on rear seat that always seems to fall off and is utterly useless
6) Yet to do: fix main cabinet door so that there is some access to cabinet when bed is out.
7) love to replace floor with something like Cole has used
Some people have taken out the cover for the sink and stove but I'm not sure that is worth it yet. Also, adding LED lighting, maybe adding some storage on ceiling in back like a Westy. Lots to do! So little time!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Thanks for the comments 42!
I just picked up the Eurovan today and drove it from San Diego to L.A. Drives great! The previous owner replaced the long fluorescent light with LED lights and added one in the rear. Some PO put in a gigantic amp in the closet (the thing has got to be 18" long) that's attached to 1" thick clear acrylic - don't know what they were thinking...but I hope they had it laying around, that stuff is costy. The controls for the fridge have been disconnected and a new one has been put in a cabinet. Don't know why.
Like you, one of my thoughts (but I'm going to live with it a bit first) is a cabinet under the bunk bed in the rear like in a vanagon. Looking at it now it seems like it would be an easy install.
I also measured the width of the front, and a hanging hammock should work. There's 5' between the doors and about 6 inches either side of the flat top of the window - that should allow for a 36" wide hammock max. Probably go with about 32" wide. We'll see. I have a bolt of denim sitting around, the rest is cheap.
I'm off on the 18th for a camping trip, so I'll get a better feel for the EVC. My Vanagon is a weekender, so this is my first try with a full camper. My only concern is the smaller bed, my honey and I like to spread out a bit at night - we'll just have to get cozy (less fun with the kids sleeping around us).
-
I have done quite a few interior and exterior modifications to my EVC - check out http://1705.net (http://1705.net).
- Platform bed with drawer
- New "food" cabinet
- Upper shelf
- "D" rings to hang things
- Battery disconnect
- etc
-
Pure Awesome dsh1705! Thanks for the post.
Interestingly, on my 03 EV Weekender, i had absolutely no interest in modifications. Now that I have "graduated" to my EVC, I love the act of 'dialing it in' I suppose because it is so much more of a 'toolkit' for camping, as opposed to a van with a couple of sleeper bunks.
-
Great work dsh1705! I really like the extended food cabinet as well as the mini table.
Sdunn, I think a reason you want to modify your EVC while not messing with your Weekender, is that Winnebago did such a lousy job with the conversion. They used cheap parts wherever they could and it seems nothing is really well thought out except the layout which basically just follows what Westfalia did before. If I were to start over, I would take all the Winnebago stuff out and either redo it or replace it, including the pop top! I love my EVC but an just really disappointed with Winnebago!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Love the work also dsh1705! Really love the food cabinet - something like that is the next project! The stock one is really small. I looked into mine, but don't see how it's attached offhand. How do you remove it?
Also liked the little coffee shelf, that's a keeper as well. I also noticed you have a curtain behind the front seats. Is that aftermarket?
On a side note:
So I looked under the back bed/seat to check out the size of the storage box there, and instead was a solid black box. Puzzled, I examined it and saw there was a speaker wire plug in the back. A PO installed a ridiculous sound system (included giant amp in closet, wire that could be used for 220V, etc) and removed the under seat box and put in a huge subwoofer! I found the receipt, it was a $1000 sound system in 2001. I spent yesterday pulling out the subwoofer and building a box to replace it. Storage is king!
-
You remove the cabinet by removing the aluminum face frame. Wish I had pictures of my disassembly, but was in a bit of a hurry (had to head to my daughter's wedding in Peru [Indiana]).
Curtains are custom made by my wife - should be some details on the site about that - http://curtaintrax.com (http://curtaintrax.com) is where we got the parts. I can provide a detailed write-up (I think I can find it somewhere......)
Little-thought-out note about the storage area under the bed on the EVC - the vents on the driver's side of this area provide needed cooling for the horrible Magnetek charger and the ever-reliable Suburban furnace - and should not be blocked, or removed. The airflow for these devices is convection - input is through the vents, exhaust is through the vent above the water fill area.
-
42pvan - True - that pop-top (including tent, latching mechanism...especially the latching mechanism) is really inferior to the westfalia. I've been thinking about making my own tent, as mine has seen better days. My sewing machine can sew ballistic nylon, so I don't have a materials problem. The way the tent attaches to the roof and poptup looks very straightforward. Some day......;)
-
Thanks dsh1705, the site for the curtain tracks is what I needed. Do you remember which kind of track you used? Other then that, it's a no-brainer. In my old vanagon I made some little aluminum tabs with holes and attached them to either side behind the front seats so I could tie a rope with a curtain across. Loved it, much handier then the curtain around the front window, plus my son slept on a board on the front seats so he had his own room.
I'll figure out the cabinet thing when I get it back from the shop (its in for fluid flush, tune-up...new car stuff).
Also, thanks for they tips on the under seat box. It's already in, but plenty of space on either side. It's only 22 1/2 inches wide - fits between the tracks. I'll post some pics if anyone wants.
-
42pvan - True - that pop-top (including tent, latching mechanism...especially the latching mechanism) is really inferior to the westfalia. I've been thinking about making my own tent, as mine has seen better days. My sewing machine can sew ballistic nylon, so I don't have a materials problem. The way the tent attaches to the roof and poptup looks very straightforward. Some day......;)
The pop-top fabric/design is quite good - the fabric is Sunforger Marine "Boat Shrunk" 100% Cotton Canvas 10 ounce - a fabric used by tent makers, as it is breathable, and is impregnated with water repellent. The 3 windows allow for great ventilation, and the ability to unzip the front screen to access what is stored in the luggage rack is very handy (like to access your storage box: http://1705.net/archives/104 (http://1705.net/archives/104) )
-
Curtain items purchased from http://www.curtain-tracks.com (http://www.curtain-tracks.com):
RECMAR 3112 Plastic Curtain Track
RECMAR 3091 Snap Tape
RECMAR 3115 Curtain Track End Cap
RECMAR 3070 Snap Carrier
-
Most of my mods have been to maximize storage and to keep things from moving around. We have used various size broom clips to hold everthing from flashlights, lighters, awining accesories, etc. You can get them that hold everything from 1/8" to 3" or probably even bigger. We used one to hold a flashlight right above the slider so it is always there and the way I mounted it on the bulk head by the door we can aim it to become a porch light. I will try to snap some pictures of the various hooks and clips we have used. I have also mounted cargo nets in very places and am looking to add more.
-
The pop-top fabric/design is quite good - the fabric is Sunforger Marine "Boat Shrunk" 100% Cotton Canvas 10 ounce - a fabric used by tent makers, as it is breathable, and is impregnated with water repellent. The 3 windows allow for great ventilation, and the ability to unzip the front screen to access what is stored in the luggage rack is very handy (like to access your storage box: http://1705.net/archives/104 (http://1705.net/archives/104) )
The fabric does seem quite high quality. What I don't like (and would attempt to remedy) is how fussy it is to keep out of the way of the latches when you are lowering it (westfalia designed this much better, at least on the EV Weekender), and how mildew stains are very difficult to remove. I *think* what happened to mine is that the tent was lowered wet one or more times, not allowed to dry, and mildew set in, staining the front of it pretty well.
-
Thanks David…that's exactly what I wanted! Found your write-up on your site last night with all the info also.
trbowgn - good idea with the broom clips. I'll check them out. I agree, maximizing storage is king in these cars!
-
BTW - "global" THANK YOU :D to everyone who finds my site useful - I keep forgetting to say that in posts.... I should just add it to my sig..... ;D
-
The fabric does seem quite high quality. What I don't like (and would attempt to remedy) is how fussy it is to keep out of the way of the latches when you are lowering it (westfalia designed this much better, at least on the EV Weekender), and how mildew stains are very difficult to remove. I *think* what happened to mine is that the tent was lowered wet one or more times, not allowed to dry, and mildew set in, staining the front of it pretty well.
Agreed - why there is no room in the front for the fabric is another "Winnebago mystery". I think that many "mildew" spots folks see in the front are actually grease from the latches... :'( - I just think of all the spots as "travel badges"..... ;D
-
I have added shelves, new LEDs, etc. but best mod has to be adding a Porti Potti. Housed in nice simple cabinet, that is also (1) the step up to get up into the pop-top and (2) a coffee table and (3) a seat.
Everyone has woken up at 3am, it's pouring rain, the campground is so dark you can't even see your feet, where's my flashlight, the critters outside are making strange noises, and you need to pee. This is a wonderful investment. My wife is very, very happy now.
2 photos attached. Can post/send pdfs of construction drawings and more photos if wanted. Porti Potti is Thetford 320P, and cabinet is made of 3/8" birch ply with clear coat. Cushion made by my wife.
-
Need help/advice/precedents
Has anyone here replaced the interior panel on the sliding door (with something other than the same panel) ?
My sliding door panel was just attached with one clip and one screw. Yes, it made quite a racket. Because it was so loose, it interfered with the door lock plunger in a way that when locking the EVC, the sliding door would not lock - not great for security. So this morning I took the panel off. Not one clip is still glued to the panel, most are missing BUT the door now locks. The panel just looks old and I am not concerned about trying to keep the original "look". Already I have removed the closet doors and installed nice baltic birch shelves with a curtain. May replace front panel on fridge to the birch, too.
Overall everything looks quite clean, so I am thinking of adding sound deadening insulation and then a nice baltic birch ply inset panel, maybe with some storage in it - there's lots of space in that door.
Has anyone done something similar or has photos of a similar project by others? Any and all help appreciated.
-
I like the idea of more storage in the door! More storage is always good :)
Also the porta potty would be a real hit with my GF! More projects... :-\
-
Sliding Door Replacement Panel Project - 1
Well, have taken the first step in replacing the sliding door panel - removal of old (original EVC) panel. Old panel was held on with only one screw and maybe 2 internal clips. No wonder the thing made some much noise. Came off in about 10 seconds. Inside all the clips were no longer attached, glue just dried up. Pro of having a Florida EVC is no rust; the con is the sun really beats up the interior. Also removed all the sliding door trim, which was cracked, missing pieces, etc. Someone in the past installed a window shade by screwing attachment bracket in through the trim into the metal of the door. Screwed it in so much, it cracked all the trim. FYI - I knew all this when I bought my EVC; just now getting around to dealing with it.
Actually I like the cleaner look of the painted metal. (photo). VW later went with this look in their T5's.
Did some research for storage in the panel and came across aftermarket panels, but only for T5's. (photo) I will probably just do plain panel, but it will allow removal at later date if I want to add storage.
I have figured out (at least I will try it) how to attach the new baltic birch ply panel, so it can be removed at a later date. There are 20 predrilled holes in the door, each 5/16"/8mm in diameter. Was thinking of Rivnuts, but that seems overkill (just a panel, not cabinets) , so I am going to try "well nuts" used in boat building. (photo) Come in 8-32 5/16"/8mm size and will use stainless socket screws. Advantage is they have built in neoprene washer (between panel and door metal) which will alleviate any vibration noises when the panel is attached. Also do not need special tool to install well nuts.
Tricky part is that the holes in the panel need to be drilled exactly in the location to line up with the installed well nuts. So that requires a very accurate template. I started the tempting process yesterday. More on that later.
-
Template shouldn't be too hard…just tape a piece of butcher paper tightly over the door and do a rubbing to show the holes. I like the pic of the door with the cubbies! That will be a nice addition!
-
No cubbies for now; just going to do the panel.
Did not use butcher paper, used drafting mylar (I can see through it, too), because it is stiffer. Not as easy as it all looks. First panel is about 31" x 44", so anything flops around a lot, constantly moving, even after you tape it to the door. Remember, the door is still on the van; gravity has this way of making things droop, fall off, etc. ;) You place one piece of tape while the other end of the mylar is coming off. One person, only 2 hands. You use a lot of tape (I use painters tape). Second, panel is concave - slightly, but enough to make it a PITA. Third, you have to work around the big rubber bumper on the forward side of door, part of the panel slides under that. Fourth, there are about 20 large holes for the connections; between marking the holes and the paper shifting/moving/buckling a bit due to the concavity, the locations are not that exact. Screw up the template and you screw up the panel. Measure twice, cut once.
Did mylar template, then transferred that to a piece of 1/8" foam core. Fit the foam core now, trimmed, fitted, trimmed. Then cut "windows" (larger than the 5/16" holes) with mylar "glass" at all the holes. Holes are 5/16", but the final well nut screw is only about 1/8" (8-32 size), so all the holes need to be spot on. When I get well nuts this week, I will install them, place template, then mark the holes exactly on the windows. Then I am ready for final cutting and drilling of the ply. One 5'x5' panel of 1/8" baltic birch ply (5 ply layers) costs $80 + shipping - this is not the stuff at HD or Lowes; it is not inexpensive and I can' just run out and buy another sheet if I screw up. When it goes on, each and every hole has to line up with the installed well nuts.
Yes, I could have just drilled and used sheet metal screws, but I like to make things difficult.
-
Ahhh...it's never as easy as one would think! Sounds like you have the bases covered. I'm working on a '66 spitfire (very long term project) and will be doing all the interior paneling in it. Just getting it ready for prep and paint now. I'm sure I will feel your pain when I get to that stage. I like the foam-core idea...I'll keep that in mind!
-
Picking up the Plywood today. Found local source for 1/8" 4 ply baltic Birch plywood - $15/ 5x5 sheet vs much higher $ for some 5 ply mail-order.
Just finished installing low profile, flat lid Fantastic Fan per albertr instructions, over in "Show off your projects here" section. Needed to do that with my low clearance garage.
-
I have added shelves, new LEDs, etc. but best mod has to be adding a Porti Potti. Housed in nice simple cabinet, that is also (1) the step up to get up into the pop-top and (2) a coffee table and (3) a seat.
Everyone has woken up at 3am, it's pouring rain, the campground is so dark you can't even see your feet, where's my flashlight, the critters outside are making strange noises, and you need to pee. This is a wonderful investment. My wife is very, very happy now.
2 photos attached. Can post/send pdfs of construction drawings and more photos if wanted. Porti Potti is Thetford 320P, and cabinet is made of 3/8" birch ply with clear coat. Cushion made by my wife.
Bob, is it Thetford? I have Thetford 320P and it looks about the same as yours... Still need to fab a cabinet for it so it can be used as a step to get up to the upper bed.
-albertr
-
albertr
Yes, mine is the Thetford 320p and we use it as a step to the upper bunk. Also is our coffee table in the van now. One thing I am glad I did was order and have the Thetford in hand before finalizing the design and doing any cutting. The real dimensions are different than what is on the website.
Since I seem to have a bit of a problem attaching things to post here on the forum (Cole knows) and I have your email, I will email them to you along with more photos, dwgs, etc. Okay?
-
Great, thanks Bob! Looking forward to see your drawings/cabinet design.
-albertr
-
FINISHED!
I have completed the replacement sliding door panel and have posted a new thread with a pdf of the instructions in the "Interior" section.
-
Replaced the three small incandescent lamps in the high center rear brake light with brighter LED's. Used the same housing that is attached to the glass so it "looks" stock.
W. Li