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Messages - SWSL

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1
Westfalia / Re: 01 Weekender drop in aux battery?
« on: August 13, 2020, 01:13:20 pm »
I suggest you look into the lithium replacement that GoWesty sells.  May require some additional management but may just drop in.

https://www.gowesty.com/product/electrical/25082/lifepo_aux_battery-50ah
I see that they are currently sold out.  The price was half of market for lithium. 

Personally, I installed a battleborn 100 ah battery under the seat - but on it's side.  Took plenty of modification and costs $1,000 but lots more power.  The 50 ah lithium that GoWesty sells would still be quite an upgrade to the factory one.  And so cheap.  If they restock, it's a steal!

2
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Slow gasoline refill: 03 EVW
« on: September 17, 2019, 11:51:02 am »
Maybe a little late, but this:

"some folks have removed the canister (its below the filler, under the van), cut it open and either dried or replaced the charcoal."

I pulled the cannister and then drained the fuel out and ran air through it for some time.  I used my little tire pump (what I had on hand while camping.  I think that it was actually a good limited velocity of air over time that worked better.

Been good ever since (1 year- 50 fillups).  I did not actually cut it open and change anything, just dried it out but YMMV !

Steve

3
Quote
Once I get my dash put back in place after rebuilding the blender box,

I did mine a few months ago using the cut window approach from underneath.  I figured that my well cared-for van would not need a heater core for some more years.   Two months later, it went out.  Now after all that contortion to avoid heavy disassembly I've got to take it all apart anyway. 

So, do your heater core now! You won't regret it.  Rockauto has best price I found.

For people that camp in the boonies a lot, have a "real" fridge and use solar,  I highly recommend Battleborn batteries (or other quality LIFEPO4) for a house battery upgrade.  Not just the increased capacity/weight-size ratio, but the quick charging profile, etc, etc., tremendously increased life in storage as well as life cycles in use. A good lithium battery should last ten years.  Of course the value of a high performance house battery depends on your usage as well as budget for initial outlay.  But worth considering before spending another $ on the old finicky lead acid tech.   The Eurovan is a perfect candidate with the under seat location.  Lithiums should be inside the vehicle, not outside it.

cheers

4
Yep, if your house lights and lighter outlets in back are working when the engine of off, then it's all wired up and probably the battery is charging while running.   Y ou can drop the little panel in the base of the driver's seat to see a few things, mostly fuses.  Possibly you can check the house batter voltage by finding it's side of the relay.

I would pull the driver's seat to look at the house battery and check it's voltage and then run it down to whatever is 50% (not terribly familiar with lead acid)  and see how many hours of use you are getting out of it.

The house battery can be upgraded in so many ways, it comes with the bare minimum.  Also the wiring to that battery is thin.

5

?? I thought that Yeti is basically just an upscale five day igloo cooler?  Don't know how you'd power that, but there are chest style fridges some of which cost about the same as a yeti but actually have 12v compressors.  I have one where the weekender seat fridge used to be.  We got the shortest one to use it as a bench for the table.

Look at the  Engels, Snomaster (low profile), Dometic. for a good fit.
Or off brands Edgestar /Winter  on amazon to get a real  fridge for virtuslly the same cost as one of those hyped up yeti coolers.

 

6
Exterior / Re: Which awning to get for EVC?
« on: May 01, 2018, 03:30:28 pm »
Did you every get the new ARB Aluminum awning? It looks great, and hope it works as well as other ARBs...

No, I think I'm gonna go with the Fiamma F35.  I like some of the details on it better.  But they both seem quite similar - not having seen either in person-  Deciding right now, just saw this thread again.

Does anybody know how a 270 cm might fit on a weekender?  I measured for a 10' a while back and it's a no-go.  But now I see that there is a 270 (just under 9') and I wonder if it will fit without sticking out from the wind line in front.

I won't see my stored van until after I order my awning, so need somebody that has one at hand! 
Thanks.

7
Managed to get everything into that one compartment and mostly serviceable from front access panel.  Very pleased with Victron components.  Solar charge controller (MPPT 75/15)  and Battery/system monitor (BMV702) both have bluetooth so I can monitor by app on my phone.   

8
Ran 4ga from front battery as suggested.  Prepped with padding, custom Simpson tie and duffle strap battery hold-down.

9
My choice for a "drop-in" LiFEPO4  battery.   $850 delivered is cheaper than Lead Acid per cycle and should outlast several sets of 100 amp lead-acid in one light battery. 

10
Finally getting around to posting some photos from last summer's install.

11
I'm upgrading and just bought a lithium battery for mine.   It's a "drop-in" lithium which means it's internal "Battery Management System" is designed to work ok with a lead-acid oriented system. 

I did a lot of research on drop-in  LiFePo4 batteries (the type to use) and finally settled on the 100 ah "Battle Born Battery".
Both "Bay Marine Supply" and "Northern Az Wind and solar" sell it and both currently offer a discount over the US-based mfr's price,  though you do have to ask Bay Marine for the discount.  Bay Marine is a GREAT company to deal with, by the way, very helpful and the best prices around. Nothing against NAWS either, good folks.

100 AH might not sound like any great advantage considering the high initial cost ($850 shipped with discount), but these lithiums should give much more real usage for the AH rating, size and weight. 

- you can draw lifepo4 batteries down all the way if you want with little issue, so 100 ah lifepo4 has more useable power than 200 ah lead.  Most sources indicate that 100% DOD is not an issue when needed, but that 80% DOD will give the most cycles
- they hold their voltage up until the very end, so your fridge won't be cutting out early.
- they charge much faster to 100% and will soak up more amps when available, so smaller panels or shorter drives will still get you your full capacity back sooner.  You don't have to "spoon-feed" them juice over long periods like the AGMs and other lead based batteries.
- unlike lead, they don't care if they don't get fully charged. 
- minimal self-discharge
-longer life in storage
-many more cycles

Caveats:  Just like lead, keep 'em cool to make 'em last.  Don't charge when the the battery is frozen.  Internal electronics on the Battle Born take care of the freeze factor. Mounting inside van keeps 'em cool.

Extensive comparison on value/capacity of lithiums vs AGM
https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2015/03/30/batteries-lithium-ion-vs-agm/

I'm doing a solar setup as well myself, which I'll detail once I get it installed, but thought I would give a heads up now for anybody who is about to buy and unaware that lithium is maturing as an available tech and seems especially appropriate  for smaller vehicles where small and light really do count.  IF you have the $$$ for initial outlay, they might actually be more economical over the years.

From everything I have seen, these will probably give a long enough run-time for a fridge with no solar, just alternator charging if you are not boondocking for long periods.  And though the alternator should charge the "drop-ins" decently as-is, because lithiums like different voltage levels than lead and mainly, no float charge, it seems that changing the relay over to something designed to work with lithium will get the longest life.   The Victron Cyrix Li-charge is the one I'll using as recommended by Alan at Bay Marine:
https://baymarinesupply.com/victron-cyrix-li-intelligent-battery-combiners-for-lithium-systems.html   I had originally ordered the Li-CT, but he called and convinced me to go with the Li-Charge as it's uni-directional and less issues than the bi-directional Li-CT

cheers




12
Westfalia / Re: Yakima roof tracks on a Westfalia top.
« on: July 11, 2017, 11:52:52 am »
Hi.  Old thread, but good to keep it all in one place.  What basket are you using?  The Yakimas are $$$ but don't want a cheap rust prone knock-off either.   Yours looks simple and light.

Also what box?  I like your setup and am doing the same.  Not cheap, but prime real estate never is!

Just to keep all the info visible to everybody,  I pm'd Southernvanman and this was his response: 
Quote
I'm happy with the rack - it's perfect for me.  I used the Yakima "Basketcase" and "Rocket Box Pro" (either the 12 or the 14, probably the 14 but don't recall.) 

13
Westfalia / Re: Yakima roof tracks on a Westfalia top.
« on: July 09, 2017, 05:22:16 pm »
I had a few questions about my rack rig via PM and ok'd with asker to post here in case others may benefit.

Hi.  Old thread, but good to keep it all in one place.  What basket are you using?  The Yakimas are $$$ but don't want a cheap rust prone knock-off either.   Yours looks simple and light.

Also what box?  I like your setup and am doing the same.  Not cheap, but prime real estate never is!

14
Exterior / Re: Lifting a t4 advice
« on: July 02, 2017, 01:36:59 pm »
Yep, seems like the shocks.  I got the Bilstein HDs and will install sometime in July.  Although GoWesty promotes their custom-valved "extra" HD Bilsteins as best even for the Weekender, most report the HDs as being about right for a weekender.

Revalving the Fox shocks could be better than the HDs depending on how much they adjust and how much weight you add.

15
Exterior / Re: Lifting a t4 advice
« on: July 01, 2017, 01:03:54 pm »
Cole and others know a lot more about torsion bars, but from everything I understand, adjusting ride height on one should not change spring rate but maybe it preloads it more?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_bar_suspension

Unless it's just fatigued, it seems that it should behave about the same, if not stiffer.

I lifted my old Nissan truck in the rear by adding leafs to the pack and then adjusted the front torsion bars to level and that worked fine. If the ride changed any, it was stiffer, but never really noticed.   Different vehicle, of course.

About to do the same on my new EVW, will report back.

Steve

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