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Messages - DRotblatt

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1
It was definitely worth it for me. Every watt matters, and sunlight is free as far as I'm concerned. Still trying to find a high-output alternator (250A +) for EuroVan so I can charge my house batteries while driving. My original alternator is 120A and is not up to the task of charging 300Ah house batteries ;-)

Once alternator issue is solved, I'm hoping to become completely self-sufficient and should be able to ditch shoreline and my portable propane generator altogether.

-albertr

Why won't the 120A alternator do the job...wouldn't it just take longer? 

2
Show off your projects here! / Re: Easy reading and work light
« on: September 09, 2015, 11:12:11 pm »
You can also get those flashlights at Harbor Freight.  I have a few of them, they are great!

3
I replaced my coach battery with two 6V golf cart batteries (from Costco).  The original battery probably had around 100AH, while the two 6V batteries have around 240AH.  I managed to put them side by side, so I think I actually gained a few inches of storage space behind the batteries.  Here's a write-up:

http://www.rotblattsculpture.com/eurovanbatteryin.html

4
Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Winnebago AUX/house battery, solar thread.
« on: September 05, 2015, 01:02:23 am »
Here's a write-up of my double 6V golf cart battery install in anyone is interested.  I'll add the relay after I take a pic of it.

http://www.rotblattsculpture.com/eurovanbatteryin.html

5
I'm taking this thread to the "Winnebago AUX/house battery, solar thread."  Shouldn't have started a new one....mainly wanted to get some answers to questions while installing the batteries.

If you'd like to see a write-up of installing two 6v golf cart batteries: http://www.rotblattsculpture.com/eurovanbatteryin.html

Continued on "Winnebago AUX/house battery, solar thread."

6
The parts I ordered/purchased are:
-2 6V golf cart batteries from Costco
-Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay from Amazon.com
-Battery box: http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,573.html
-2 of Camco 47440 Black 5/16" Stud 18" Long 4-Gauge Marine Battery Cable and Lug Assembly Tinned from Amazon
-E Support Car Battery Isolator Disconnect Cut OFF Power Kill Switch (amazon.com)

7
Sigh….last few times I started it it didn't do it  :o

I hate computers!

Still would love to hear any thoughts….

8
Bob…I got the progressive dynamics PD9245CV, but haven't installed it yet.  But can't answer your questions, I'm just assuming they would both work well, and this one worked for 42pvan (?).

FYI, I just put in two 6v golf batteries side by side (Costco, about 240AH).  Very little modification to car.  Had to cut one aluminum brace form the inside of the cover and replace with steel 1/8" flat bar, but otherwise fit where old battery is and leaves an inch or two more for storage then the old box.  There was some modification to the battery box to add vent, drain and allow the top to fit.  I'll be doing a write-up with pics after I get back from Central Calif trip (leaving tomorrow).

Excuse all the tools and crap in the pics...

9
The van ('95) just started to do this 10 days ago.  I start it, it runs fine for about 5-15 seconds, then if I give it gas it doesn't rev (no power/doesn't move if in drive or reverse) seems to want to die, too much gas and it almost backfires, but rpm's don't go up and it struggles.  I baby it of 15-20 seconds and once I get it to rev a few times it's fine.  Drives fine until I turn it off and start it again.  Seems to be getting a little worse...it's died a couple of times lately, and not getting fine as fast after a few revs.

Seems like some computer version of a choke not working right, but my experience is with mechanical cars (like from the 60's).  My daily driver got totaled (I'm fine), so the EVC is now my daily driver.

Help…Any thoughts? 

10
Went with BestConverter.com for charger, yet to install it, but the twin 6v batteries are installed, along with a new relay. 

Still does not charge from the alternator.  Tester reads 13.7V when car is running to the car battery, through the relay, but 12.5V at the coach batteries.  Seems like a break in the circuit between the relay and the coach batteries.  According to the wiring diagram from Winnebago the only place there is a connection between the two batteries is a stud near the charger.  I'll take a look at that tomorrow. 
MY BAD…after some futzing around, I found that the coach batteries are charging!  All is well. The alternator voltage drops when all three batteries are connected to about 12.75V on idle…looked like it wasn't charging.

I took pics of the installation, and I'll post them.  Did have to do a little modifying to get the battery box in with the batteries sideways rather then end to end, but more room for storage!

11
Winnebago "Full Campers" / Coach Battery Upgrade and Rewire Questions
« on: August 11, 2015, 12:32:12 am »
Just bought the car 6 weeks ago, the coach battery is not recharging while driving.  I'll put test numbers and symptoms below.  After some messing around I've decided to:
1) change the relay on the firewall above battery,
2) put in 2 golf cart batteries instead of single coach battery,
3) change the charger (either Progressive Dynamics [PD9245CV] 45 Amp Power Converter per David, or a ProMariner ProSport 20, 20amp, 2 Bank 43020). 

My main question is "Where is a switched connector (on/off with ignition switch) that I can attach the relay to." The relay in my car is not stock.  I believe the body of the stock relay was grounded to the firewall, and a 3rd wire was attached to a switched circuit.  In the picture below there is a purple wire that has been cut off (right arrow).  When the ignition is on it is hot, when the ignition is off it is grounded (or maybe I have that in reverse...).  I believe this is the wire that once went to the old relay, I know Winnabago used purple wires. 

If you take a look at the pic of the relay below, I believe that the relay put in by a PO is wrong or it's wired wrong.  It's a 3 wire relay, and is screwed in through plastic, so the body is not grounded.  The 3rd wire was hooked up to the neg terminal of the battery.  It's a voltage sensitive relay, It says on it: "cut in 13.7V, cut out 12.8V"  It was basically closed (current went through) no matter what.

Here's the symptoms and what I've found out, coach battery was dead (11.8V across contacts disconnected):
A) The relay: Engine on, engine off, coach battery connected or disconnected the relay stays closed (current goes through it).  The car battery died when not driven for 2 weeks.  I assume it was trying to charge the dead or dying coach battery while it sat.  Thus a new relay.
B) The charger works; 15+V if the house battery is disconnected, 13.8V with the battery connected.  Still, i'd rather have a smart charger.  Looks like an easy switch.
C) Coach battery was at 11.8V.  I charged it overnight on shore power, and it was up to 13.8, dropping .01 every few seconds when I disconnected a terminal.  Wanted to change out the battery for 2 6v golf cart batteries anyway.
D) Car battery is at 12.75V with house battery disconnected..

The parts I've ordered/purchased are:
-2 6V golf cart batteries from Costco
-Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay from Amazon.com
-Battery box: http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,573.html
-2 of Camco 47440 Black 5/16" Stud 18" Long 4-Gauge Marine Battery Cable and Lug Assembly Tinned from Amazon
-E Support Car Battery Isolator Disconnect Cut OFF Power Kill Switch

Haven't ordered the charger yet, but I'll probably get the "Progressive Dynamics (PD9245CV) 45 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard" from Amazon for 168.99.

12
Inline 5cyl Petrol engine tech / Re: Desperate about mpg on 93
« on: August 05, 2015, 11:23:25 pm »
What's your mpg?  I was getting from 13-15 mpg on my last trip (except for 20 mpg coming down from Yosemite), in my '95 EVC.  It's a heavier vehicle and was loaded with stuff and family, but same engine.  Would love to get better too.

Also read on one site that using premium gas caused a substantial increase in gas milage/economy (https://www.poptopheaven.com/about_eurovan.asp).  Are you running on regular or premium?

13
Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Interior Mods, Gadgets, or Additions
« on: August 05, 2015, 11:17:05 pm »
Ahhh...it's never as easy as one would think!  Sounds like you have the bases covered.  I'm working on a '66 spitfire (very long term project) and will be doing all the interior paneling in it.  Just getting it ready for prep and paint now.  I'm sure I will feel your pain when I get to that stage.  I like the foam-core idea...I'll keep that in mind!

14
Share your adventures! / Re: My 1st week with my "new" 93 Eurovan
« on: August 02, 2015, 05:07:24 pm »
Man, your first week was worst then mine!  A wheel popping off  :o  Good luck with it, glad no one was hurt - good driving!

15
Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Interior Mods, Gadgets, or Additions
« on: August 02, 2015, 05:04:31 pm »
Template shouldn't be too hard…just tape a piece of butcher paper tightly over the door and do a rubbing to show the holes.   I like the pic of the door with the cubbies!  That will be a nice addition!

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