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Messages - evlove

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1
Want to buy something? / Sprinter passenger seat
« on: September 04, 2018, 07:26:32 am »
Looking for a front passenger seat with pedestal for a sprinter build.  Anyone have any or either of those two things?  I’ll be putting it in a NCV3, 2017 so anything that’ll fit.  Cheers, Paul


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2
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Slow Crank, No Start
« on: June 01, 2018, 12:18:29 am »
It has been below zero here too had to leave the charger on for an hour before it would crank over. My battery is probably 2 years old. I would check the main ground and recheck your connections. You can bring your battery to the place you got it to have them do a load test on it.

Replaced all the grounds and cleaned up the battery terminals.  Tried starting again, it was slow but finally fired.  Once it started and ran for a bit it has cranked quickly ever since.  Now it’s a bit slower to fire, cranks for 3-4 seconds or sometimes on a second crank when the engine is warm. 

I took it into the shop to have them troubleshoot the lengthy crank but they couldn’t figure it out either.  Otherwise it’s running strong at 175k miles.


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3
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Slow Crank, No Start
« on: January 15, 2018, 08:11:40 pm »
Are your jumper cables heavy duty? Is it below zero where you are? Did you try to bump up the rpms on the other car while starting?  If the starter is new, the key is engaging the solinoid, all wires and connections are good from the battery, and battery terminals are clean and tight I would say battery. If you are careful and know what you are doing you could try jumping hot at the starter that would eliminate the possibility of a bad wire or connection.

Yep, heavy duty jumpers I made from 2 ga welding cable. 

I’m wondering if it’s a bad ground.  It’s been leaking coolant for quite a while based on all the build up and the main motor ground is right under the leaky housing. I thought of a hot start, likely try that tomorrow just to see what happens.  Otherwise, I’ll replace all the grounds to see if that makes the difference.  They’re original and cleaned them up a few times before for other issues, due to be changed I suppose. 

Appreciate the additional perspective, I’ll keep you posted as I sort it out.  And yes, it’s below freezing here - really wishing for that heated garage now.  :)




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4
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Slow Crank, No Start
« on: January 15, 2018, 07:17:36 pm »
The maf would have nothing to do with that. When you jump start it try to connect the ground jumper somewhere on the engine.

Just tried that, no dice. Same if I put the ground on one of the bolts of the starter. 


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5
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Slow Crank, No Start
« on: January 15, 2018, 05:16:12 pm »
I would try to jump start it with some good cables. I have had a few new batteries with bad cells. The voltage can be okay and not have the amperage to crank the engine. Also check your ground wires. If your battery is new it should be warrantied.

Thanks Robinson, tried jumping from another battery and from another car with the same slow crank. So strange. 

Im wondering if I messed up the MAF somehow, but that shouldn't cause a slow crank...  right? 

6
VR6 Engine tech / Slow Crank, No Start
« on: January 15, 2018, 04:59:07 pm »
Just replaced a leaky thermostat housing with the fancy cast aluminum from UroTuning - looked so pretty!  It went on my 2001 MV after the old plastic one leaked for a month before I got a minute to get the job done.

Once I filled it back up with coolant, I looked over the motor for anything else going on, replaced the air filter, cleaned up the MAF, changed the oil, replaced a few vacuum hoses, brake pads, etc.  Once I wrapped it all up and hopped in to start it up and all I got was a slow chug, chug, chug, chug...

Naturally, I thought maybe the battery was dying so I put it on a charger overnight despite having a good charge.  Its a new battery, but you never know.  Tried again the morning to the same slow turn of the motor.  I checked all the electrical connections between the battery and the starter, grounds to the engine and they all looked good.  So I turned to the starter thinking it was going bad. Decided to clean up the connections a bit and try again when the solenoid housing cracked offer so I put on a new starter/solenoid only to have the same slow turn. 

Any suggestions?  I don't have a VAG, but a common code reader isn't producing any codes - except low coolant from prior to doing the work.  Your help is always welcomed!   

7
Want to buy something? / 2001 MV Rear Heater Blower
« on: January 09, 2018, 12:11:49 pm »
Mine went up in smoke - anyone have a donor van they're parting out?

I'm pretty sure anything between 1999-2003 will fit.  This is not the AC blower, just the rear heat blower under the van near the sliding door.

8
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Engine Oil type
« on: September 10, 2017, 12:26:06 pm »
I usually have 5 or 10w-30 in the summer months, 0w in the winter.

I have found the lower the viscosity the more vaporized oil in the air intake.  Anyone else have that issue?

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VR6 Engine tech / Re: "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced
« on: September 09, 2017, 12:56:16 pm »
Wow, that's filthy! Probably better replace anyway, it'll cost a lot in labor just to clean and replace broken parts.

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VR6 Engine tech / Re: Need a new engine
« on: September 09, 2017, 12:53:43 pm »
I haven't had to replace an engine but I've read a bunch about how the BDF blocks can replace the Eurovan AXK blocks. Just need to swap a few parts from the old block (tensioner, valve cover, oil pan, etc.).  The BDF motors are much easier to find and probably less expensive...  check ebay, there's quite a few for sale now.   

11
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Evap map
« on: September 09, 2017, 12:12:40 pm »
This is great Robinson, I was just going through the EVAP lines with a hard start issue.  Thanks for posting!

12
VR6 Engine tech / Re: Need a new engine
« on: September 09, 2017, 12:10:13 pm »
Keep an eye out on some of the bigger forums - members often have some VR6's for sale. I've seen them for as low as $2k with low miles.

13
VR6 Engine tech / Re: "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced
« on: September 09, 2017, 11:54:54 am »
That doesn't sound/look very good. I'd pull the valve cover off and the upper timing chain cover for a visual check. The chain guides may have failed and the chain skipped a tooth. Chances are you have valve damage at the least. Total bummer. 

14
Westfalia / Re: Chasing Shorts - Low Voltage
« on: February 20, 2017, 02:41:15 pm »
Update:

Alternator bench tested at 14v+.
Different/new battery hooked up, same charge of 12.5v coming from the alternator.
Tested electrical system for parasitic drain - no draw above 50 milliamp
Grounds ohms checks - alternator, engine, transmission, frame, body panels all within acceptable range
Positive ohms checks - alternator, starter all within acceptable range

Still getting a reading of 12.5-6v with no load, 11.34v under load.  When van is turned off with no load, the battery reads 10.8v.

Any suggestions? 

Fortunately I can still start and drive the car, the battery doesn't die, but eventually Ill be churning through batteries and don't want to be doing that.  Not to mention, short drives with high loads will leave me with a dead battery. Love to hear some advice.

15
Westfalia / Chasing Shorts - Low Voltage
« on: February 19, 2017, 05:40:28 pm »
Been on a few trips the past few months and have had a blast. While spending some time in Pagosa Springs I made a quick drive to a grocery store I came out to a dead battery in the parking lot.  Fortunately a quick jump from the house battery got me back to the condo. Since then I've been monitoring the battery voltage religiously (not just on Sunday) and have been getting some odd readings.  For the past month I haven't seen anything above 12.5v and as low as 9.7v.  The house battery varies from 12.5v-10v depending on useage. 

Logically thinking it must be the voltage regulator on the alternator, I replaced the alternator and have seen a constant 12.5v.  Advance Auto tested the old alternator and passed with flying colors (so another swap and took the new one back).  They tested the entire electrical system and found the battery to be fine too (engine battery is 13 years old, house battery is 6 months).  Im a bit suspect of the old battery, but since the house battery doesn't get a high charge voltage either it doesn't make sense to replace it right now (prove me wrong). 

Before I start from the alternator and work my way to all the grounds, anyone have any trouble spots I should check first? 


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