31

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Winnebago AUX/house battery, solar thread.

« on: August 08, 2015, 07:46:06 am »

Have not yet selected a battery, but for looked up info in Lifeline Technical Manual.  They state "Due to the low impedance design, Lifeline batteries can tolerate in-rush current levels as high as 5C (500A for a 100Ah battery)"

This agrees with some other info I found that charging rate for flooded cell batteries is 8C or 10C and AGM's (like Lifeline) are 5C.

So I will do my homework - figure out my energy needs, select a battery (probably AGM), read the manufacturer's technical literature on charging,  and then choose the charger.

Thanks for advice.

32

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Winnebago AUX/house battery, solar thread.

« on: August 07, 2015, 04:18:13 pm »

Right now I have an old flooded battery  Thinking of getting a high quality AGM, like Lifeline, but probably not a really big battery; just the size to replace the one in the original box for now. 

So keep it at 20A and under?

I did notice you have something like a 300AH bank + you upgraded to a 30 Amp plug?  I am still using original 15 amp.

33

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Winnebago AUX/house battery, solar thread.

« on: August 07, 2015, 01:17:07 pm »

Was looking at the PDI charger David recommended, but - as others have noted - the area where the Magnatek has water lines, etc.   Since I do not want to get into relocation of the charger, I am thinking a "waterproof" marine charger, like the ProMariner might be best.

The ProMariner Prosport 12 dual battery charger comes highly recommended.  So my questions are:

1.  I am not going to include my engine battery in this upgrade - going to keep house systems separate from VW. - Will dual charger still work?  I assume you just don't use the extra terminals?

2.  How much charger amps? and what are real-world implications of different charging amps - time to charge the battery?  Magnatek is 20A, PDI recommended by David is 45A, Promariner recommended is 12A.  Or could go with their 20A one.

Any help appreciated.  FYI - I am not electrically inclined. 

34

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Interior Mods, Gadgets, or Additions

« on: August 07, 2015, 10:32:05 am »

albertr

Yes, mine is the Thetford 320p and we use it as a step to the upper bunk. Also is our coffee table in the van now. One thing I am glad I did was order and have the Thetford in hand before finalizing the design and doing any cutting.  The real dimensions are different than what is on the website.

Since I seem to have a bit of a problem attaching things to post here on the forum (Cole knows) and I have your email, I will email them to you along with more photos, dwgs, etc.  Okay?

35

Want to buy something? / Re: Cup Holder/Center Console from Later Model Eurovan

« on: August 06, 2015, 05:27:17 pm »

FYI - That same cupholder pictured above in previous post but without the special cowl that fits it to the dash - is also just below the left side of the passenger seat (yes, that's right --holders for 4 cups for 2 people in our EVC  ).  Anyway, Eurocampers has that cupholder (in gray not black) VW original

http://www.eurocampers.com/VW-Double-Folding-Cup-Holder-black-or-grey-for-1995-2003-EuroVan-Camper-by-Winnebago-Rialta--discontinued-no-longer-available-_p_300.html

There is a comment "Can not be added if you did not have one originally. " Maybe even the one mounted on passenger seat has some type of special mounting bracket.

Hold the phone - it's $140.49 !!!!  Ouch!

36

Want to buy something? / Re: Cup Holder/Center Console from Later Model Eurovan

« on: August 06, 2015, 08:36:38 am »

This is the one that came with my '99.  Supposedly only the '99s had this type mounted on the dash.  Now difficult to find.

It also useful to hold my mini iPad for nav.

37

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Interior Mods, Gadgets, or Additions

« on: August 06, 2015, 06:35:35 am »

Picking up the Plywood today.  Found local source for 1/8" 4 ply baltic Birch plywood - $15/ 5x5 sheet vs much higher $ for some 5 ply mail-order. 

Just finished installing low profile, flat lid Fantastic Fan per albertr instructions, over in "Show off your projects here" section.  Needed to do that with my low clearance garage.

38

Show off your projects here! / Re: Replacing EVC skylight with Fan-Tastic vent

« on: August 04, 2015, 08:51:15 am »

Albertr - Thank you

Just installed “slim model” Fantastic Fan (for those of us vertically challenged by our garage) and wanted to thank albertr for his help.  His posted instructions with photos were invaluable.  He also answered via email some miscellaneous questions I had during process.

Everything went fine, and I only deviated a little bit from his original instructions.

I went with the basic 3 speed, manual opening, reversible Fan.  Keeping it simple.

albertr hunted and found - from different sources - the flat lid, low profile base, euro trim, etc.  Since then he found www.rvvent.com (ADohen Supply Co) and shared that info with me.  They supplied me with the low profile base, flat lid, and the “euro” garnish interior trim.  One stop shopping.

I did not have a dremel tool suitable to do the cutting, so I bought a Bosch Oscillating MultiTool, which cuts by vibration,variable speed 8-20,000 oscillations per minute.  A wonderful tool, it let me make very precise, controlled cuts in the top and interior trim, and I think it is a bit safer than a spinning saw blade.

I used the same 3M 4000UV Marine adhesive/sealant. It is really a great product with adhesion somewhere between permanent and removable.  Often used for mounting deck hardware on sailboats.  I was able to find it in a 10oz “standard” caulking tube size, rather than the larger 600ml “sausage”. Found it on Amazon, where it also comes in 3 oz tubes.  I found one 10oz tube enough for this project.  I also did use a screw in each corner to secure while it cured, rather than weights.

Final clearance above top of skylight in my garage is about 1-1/8"

39

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Interior Mods, Gadgets, or Additions

« on: August 02, 2015, 06:04:20 pm »

No cubbies for now; just going to do the panel.

Did not use butcher paper, used drafting mylar (I can see through it, too), because it is stiffer.  Not as easy as it all looks.  First panel is about 31" x 44", so anything flops around a lot, constantly moving, even after you tape it to the door.  Remember, the door is still on the van; gravity has this way of making things droop, fall off, etc.      You place one piece of tape while the other end of the mylar is coming off.  One person, only 2 hands. You use a lot of tape (I use painters tape).  Second, panel is concave - slightly, but enough to make it a PITA.   Third, you have to work around the big rubber bumper on the forward side of door, part of the panel slides under that.  Fourth, there are about 20 large holes for the connections; between marking the holes and the paper shifting/moving/buckling a bit due to the concavity, the locations are not that exact.  Screw up the template and you screw up the panel.  Measure twice, cut once.

Did mylar template, then transferred that to a piece of 1/8" foam core.  Fit the foam core now, trimmed, fitted, trimmed.  Then cut "windows" (larger than the 5/16" holes) with mylar "glass" at all the holes.  Holes are 5/16", but the final well nut screw is only about 1/8" (8-32 size), so all the holes need to be spot on.  When I get well nuts this week, I will install them, place template, then mark the holes exactly on the windows.  Then I am ready for final cutting and drilling of the ply. One 5'x5' panel of 1/8" baltic birch ply (5 ply layers) costs $80 + shipping - this is not the stuff at HD or Lowes; it is not inexpensive and I can' just run out and buy another sheet if I screw up.  When it goes on, each and every hole has to line up with the installed well nuts.

Yes, I could have just drilled and used sheet metal screws, but I like to make things difficult.

40

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Replacing popup top seal

« on: August 02, 2015, 11:16:46 am »

albertr

Glad to be of some help. 

I think all replacement poptop seals are aftermarket.  After reading Eurocampers description and their notation that it was aftermarket and original seal discontinued, I read GoWesty's description and noted they indicated it, too, was aftermarket   http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4107&category_id=362&category_parent_id=   . On this link is photo of the seal; does that look like yours?  FYI elsewhere on GoWesty's site, they also sell the seal by the linear foot, in case using the old seal for the gap does not work out

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=2493&category_id=&category_parent_id=

41

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Interior Mods, Gadgets, or Additions

« on: August 02, 2015, 09:14:44 am »

Sliding Door Replacement Panel Project - 1

Well, have taken the first step in replacing the sliding door panel - removal of old (original EVC) panel.  Old panel was held on with only one screw and maybe 2 internal clips.  No wonder the thing made some much noise.  Came off in about 10 seconds.  Inside all the clips were no longer attached, glue just dried up.  Pro of having a Florida EVC is no rust; the con is the sun really beats up the interior.    Also removed all the sliding door trim, which was cracked, missing pieces, etc. Someone in the past installed a window shade by screwing attachment bracket in through the trim into the metal of the door. Screwed it in so much, it cracked all the trim.  FYI - I knew all this when I bought my EVC; just now getting around to dealing with it.

Actually I like the cleaner look of the painted metal.  (photo). VW later went with this look in their T5's.

Did some research for storage in the panel and came across aftermarket panels, but only for T5's.  (photo) I will probably just do plain panel, but it will allow removal at later date if I want to add storage.

I have figured out (at least I will try it) how to attach the new baltic birch ply panel, so it can be removed at a later date. There are 20 predrilled holes in the door, each 5/16"/8mm in diameter. Was thinking of Rivnuts, but that seems overkill (just a panel, not cabinets) , so I am going to try "well nuts" used in boat building.  (photo) Come in 8-32 5/16"/8mm size and will use stainless socket screws.  Advantage is they have built in neoprene washer (between panel and door metal) which will alleviate any vibration noises when the panel is attached. Also do not need special tool to install well nuts.

Tricky part is that the holes in the panel need to be drilled exactly in the location to line up with the installed well nuts.  So that requires a very accurate template.  I started the tempting process yesterday. More on that later.

42

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Replacing popup top seal

« on: August 02, 2015, 07:43:19 am »

albertr,

I am pretty sure my seal is original - matches other EVCs I have seen.  The seal at the bottom in the photo looks like mine.  The piece that grips the top has metal in it; does yours?  Mine is also black, not grey.  At this point, just install a piece of the original in the gap and try it out.  If no leaks, then it works!

Who/where did you buy it?  What did the vendor say about length?

Who does sell an original replacement? From the Winnebago parts diagram, it is Winnebago Part #131559-01-000 ("seal-bulb-poptop") , but I do not find it in the Winnebago catalog, even though they do have other bulb seals in the catalog.  I looked up that part on Lichtsinn's site, but no luck.

Gowesty sells a replacement for about $110 and Eurocampers sells one for about $120. Eurocampers also says  it is "high quality aftermarket, original seal discontinued" and that its seal is 27ft. long.  The Eurocampers seal gets high reviews "This item works as indicated. It goes on easily by hand and without glue because it has internal metal threads that grip the fiberglass poptop. It has stayed on through multiple openings and closings this summer." 

FYI - My seal, too, has a slight gap - maybe a 1/2" where they meet.  But I did notice it is installed with that gap at the front of the poptop, not the rear.  Maybe because at the front, it is protected by the cowling of the luggage rack? 

43

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Interior Mods, Gadgets, or Additions

« on: July 30, 2015, 09:13:09 am »

Need help/advice/precedents

Has anyone here replaced the interior panel on the sliding door (with something other than the same panel) ?

My sliding door panel was just attached with one clip and one screw.  Yes, it made quite a racket.  Because it was so loose, it interfered with the door lock plunger in a way that when locking the EVC, the sliding door would not lock - not great for security.  So this morning I took the panel off.  Not one clip is still glued to the panel, most are missing BUT the door now locks.  The panel just looks old and I am not concerned about trying to keep the original "look".  Already I have removed the closet doors and installed nice baltic birch shelves with a curtain.  May replace front panel on fridge to the birch, too.

Overall everything looks quite clean, so I am thinking of adding sound deadening insulation and then a nice baltic birch ply inset panel, maybe with some storage in it - there's lots of space in that door.

Has anyone done something similar or has photos of a similar project by others?  Any and all help appreciated.

44

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Winnebago AUX/house battery, solar thread.

« on: July 30, 2015, 07:46:25 am »

42pvan - Thanks - We should "sticky" those definitions somewhere so we are all using the same language!

albertr - saw photos elsewhere here of your battery setup - looking forward to a full review/description.

Drotblatt - The site xochi.com/evc/battery-charger/ was posted over on the Yahoo EVC group, but link now fails.  It goes through a review of the Promariner.  I have attached a pdf copy I saved a long time ago for your reference.  Electricity is not my strong suit  - Do not know if author is on this site, but recommend finding out (maybe log/join Yahoo EVC group) and contacting him for any updates. 

Still have plans to upgrade my converter to a PDI per David, then see about new battery.  Don't think an inverter required at this time.  Phones, tablet and laptop can all be charged directly on 12V.  No TV, microwaves or coffeemaker. Keeping it simple.  Some point in future is new fridge, but when we dry camp we use old fashioned cooler (Engel) with ice. A block can last several days.

45

Winnebago "Full Campers" / Re: Winnebago AUX/house battery, solar thread.

« on: July 28, 2015, 07:06:54 am »

Dan,

110V duplex plug near fridge (and one at rear of EVC, too, on mine) only works when plugged into shore power.  There is no inverter in stock EVC; the Magnatek unit that came with it is only a "power converter" (i.e. charger and not a "smart" at that ) - converting 110V to 12v to charge batteries when on shore power (I think I have that right?)

IIRC the PDI that David uses is not an inverter, but a power converter (smart charger). Disconnect your shore power and you have no 110v.  An inverter would allow you to disconnect shore power and still run 110v off your 12v battery bank.  I believe the ProMariner is also just a power converter, but that company also makes combination charger/ inverters