No cubbies for now; just going to do the panel.
Did not use butcher paper, used drafting mylar (I can see through it, too), because it is stiffer. Not as easy as it all looks. First panel is about 31" x 44", so anything flops around a lot, constantly moving, even after you tape it to the door. Remember, the door is still on the van; gravity has this way of making things droop, fall off, etc.
You place one piece of tape while the other end of the mylar is coming off. One person, only 2 hands. You use a lot of tape (I use painters tape). Second, panel is
concave - slightly, but enough to make it a PITA. Third, you have to work around the big rubber bumper on the forward side of door, part of the panel slides under that. Fourth, there are about 20 large holes for the connections; between marking the holes and the paper shifting/moving/buckling a bit due to the concavity, the locations are not that exact. Screw up the template and you screw up the panel. Measure twice, cut once.
Did mylar template, then transferred that to a piece of 1/8" foam core. Fit the foam core now, trimmed, fitted, trimmed. Then cut "windows" (larger than the 5/16" holes) with mylar "glass" at all the holes. Holes are 5/16", but the final well nut screw is only about 1/8" (8-32 size), so all the holes need to be spot on. When I get well nuts this week, I will install them, place template, then mark the holes
exactly on the windows. Then I am ready for final cutting and drilling of the ply. One 5'x5' panel of 1/8" baltic birch ply (5 ply layers) costs $80 + shipping - this is
not the stuff at HD or Lowes; it is not inexpensive and I can' just run out and buy another sheet if I screw up. When it goes on, each and every hole has to line up with the installed well nuts.
Yes, I could have just drilled and used sheet metal screws, but I like to make things difficult.